NFX: Odes And All – Part I

November 21st, 2011

A week or so ago as I got bogged down in trying to protect this site from a malware attack – no easy task, I can tell you, for this computer illiterate fool – I did pay attention to the fact that a reasonable amount of content has been added here during the last three years, now over a 100 Notes. So, for my own simple pleasure, and as I have not given myself much time to write recently, I will pick a few Notes that I have liked for whatever reason and put them up in two parts – 5 Notes in each. The 5 below all come from the first year of this site. The second 5 can be found here, and were written during the last two years.

1. Ode To Xi’an  2. Some Habits Best Kept, Others Maybe Not  3. National Day Is Upon Us Here In Xi’an  4. Barack Obama, the Great Wall, a Shanghai Hall and the Importance of Tone  5. Copenhagen, Indignation and a Neo-Naturalistic Chinese Landscape

Ode to Xi’an

terracotta-warrior-notes-from-xianXi’an. Modern city, city of the ancients, city of technology, science and education, city of a city wall, city of the Buddha’s finger, city of emperors, city of conquest, city of contradiction.

An ancient city of culture without culture, a contemporary culture sublimating a culture, a city finding balance in a future culture. The bright lights of a night city pagoda’s entertainment mall, wide freeways and san lun ches (三轮车s). Warmth, hospitality, overpricing, free drinks, lao wai (老外), differences and not a few similarities. Simplicity, clarity, haziness and pollution. Sixty in a class, extra curricula classes, never enough classes, I like my classes, I like my classmates, I like my school, I like my country. My country likes me.

River people, widowed people, homeless people, newly-housed people, proud people, loud people, peaceful people, people of a time, people of a place. Xi’an’s people. Silent people, singing people, walled-in people, self-determined people, educated people, un-educated people, realistic people, hopeful people. Different people.

Free will, no will. Expansion, development, disrepair, has been repaired, still needs to be repaired. Newly built, not really built, needs to be rebuilt. Does matter, doesn’t matter. What matters? Food matters. This food, that food, what food, whose food? Our food. Have much, don’t have much, don’t want much, want what I haven’t got, got what I haven’t got. Warriors, borrowers, investors, debtors, jokers, jesters, trustees, trust hers, trust whose? Winning smiles, legs for miles, public trials and McDonalds selling freedom fries.

Working life, lived life, living life, life of the past, life of the present, I like life. Xi’an’s life. Xi’an’s people. Zhong Lou, Nan Da Jie, Xiao Zhai, Bai Hui, Gao Xin, Chang’ An Lu. Happy people, sad people, living people. Xi’an’s people. We are those people.

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Studying Chinese, The End Of Europe, China’s Leadership, And A Bowl Of Noodles

November 12th, 2011

I start studying again and European markets go into intermittent free-fall, the governments of two ancient European civilizations are forced into change, and Chinese house prices begin to slide. If we also consider the fact this site was seriously hacked last week, then a more paranoid figure than myself might start to think his Chinese language learning was cursed. This recent instability in Europe is even being described as the next phase in what, back in 2008, began to be called the modern Great Depression. This was the last time, coincidently, that I was studying Chinese with any kind of vigour and commitment.

image taken from cogmap.com

Now, I know this language can be difficult, but these are consequences that go way beyond the normal side effects of language study, such as sleepless nights and soul searching. Fortunately, I do look up from my Chinese textbooks, flashcard software and podcasts from time to time. And so am able to recognize that this present turmoil in European economic affairs, and the recent malware attack on this site, are part of a wider mêlée and nothing actually to do with my Chinese studies at all.

image taken from pakalertpress.com

It has, though, become possible to get a sense that my renewed efforts will carry me to a point in the future when I will be able to fully engage in a discussion, in Chinese, about the benefits of different political and economic systems. And, given the environment we see around us today, I could be doing so with a people who have the experience of catastrophic failures in both Communist and Capitalist systems. Hopefully however, we will still be able to sit peacefully around a nice warm fire, eating a tasty bowl of dāoxiāomiàn (刀削面), and discussing the folly of the world we knew in our youth, while simultaneously planning for the future.

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3 Phases Of Chinese Language Learning And Some Online Tools To Help

October 30th, 2011
screenshot from carlgene.com: the saying carl uses - yíbùyígèjiǎoyìn -literally means “one step, one footprint”。It is best translated as “step by step” or “slowly but surely”

Now, one thing is for sure: you will not find me making bold statements about mastering the art of Chinese language learning. This is in part due to the fact I have been such a slow and unfocused student of the art myself, and in part because I realize it is definitely a life long task. I am, though, now beginning to take my Chinese studies seriously again. Consequently, I thought I would note down some of the online resources that are out there to help. But first, my brief take on the three basic phases of Chinese learning.

The initial phase is to get to a point where we have enough words to order food and drinks, get around town, and be able to have some very simple conversations with locals. This is the stage where we find the words tīng dǒng rising to our lips with utterly depressing frequency. Sadly, it is a symptom that can still be found in the early stages of phase two.

This second phase is like the first of two very big jumps. This jump takes us to a point where we can do most things in daily life, and chat simply about a variety of topics. We can reach a level here where we can get out and about confidently knowing that tīng dǒng are words we rarely have to use. At this level we know enough to get people to explain things using language that we do understand. To arrive at this position takes an awful lot of work.

The third phase is another huge jump. It takes us from this “everyday, no worries” level to fluency, which means using the language in almost the same way that we can use our own. This includes being able to discuss, to a reasonable depth, a wide variety of topics, only really being restricted by personality and specific interests.

This phase is going to require a level of focus, daily commitment and long-view perspective even greater than that which went into getting through the second phase. So far I have lacked the motivation to take this next step. My Chinese has been fossilizing for a couple of years in that get-by-everyday-no-worries sort of state. However, now that I am re-engaging with my studies, I will simply list a few online resources that may be useful for all students of Chinese.

I will begin with a heads up to a Lost Laowai series of interviews, known as Mandarin Mondays. Here Ryan McLaughlin, of the Lost Laowai site, has gathered together a number of China language specialists with an online presence, to offer reflections on, and tips for learning Chinese. These interviews act as good reminders and motivators; to help all of us students take steps in the right direction.

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A Sunset Over Water In Xi’an – Qǔjiāng Lake 曲江池

October 21st, 2011

After the doom and overwhelming gloom of late September and early October’s weather, it has been fantastic recently to be able to get out and about under a few clear skies and a good bit of sun again. It is only, however, a matter of time before those coal chimneys are fired up, so I have been taking this chance to get out and about as much as possible. I have been doing so with my camera in hand, just trying to actually learn how to use it. This has meant turning off all the automatic settings and trying to use it like my old manual camera.  慢慢来.

First stop, it was out to Bridges Cafe in Gāoxīn, to snap a few pictures that I have been meaning to take for a while, so I could add it to the Coffee Shops Page. Next up, was a pre-dawn ride into the city to get a few early morning pictures at Lián Gōng Yuán 莲湖公园. It is the park tucked in behind the Muslim Quarter 回民街 (Huímínjiē), and is where the locals gather for their morning exercises. The fast changing early morning light meant it was good for working on getting the shutter speed and aperture combinations right, or it would have been if I had actually got them right.  Finally, it was down to Qǔ​jiāng Lake 曲江池 to get a few sunset shots. The 池 (chí) actually translates as pool or reservoir, but generally seems to be referred to as a lake. It certainly looks lake like to me. It was worth the trip. This really is a top spot when the crowds aren’t around:

Qǔ jiāng Lake: 42mm f/11 1/250 ISO 100

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Xi’an, The Xi’anese, And The Need On Days Like These To Hang Onto Our Joie De Vivre

October 11th, 2011

10/10. In that greyish space in the top left of the picture you should be able to see three of the tallest buildings in the ming de men area. Not today. 11/10. That was yesterday. My zest for life took another battering this morning after waking to the sound of a good old-fashioned downpour adding itself to the already incomprehensibly gloomy mix. "Yes, we can."

13/10. "Oh yes, we can!"

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Being And Not Being In Xi’an: Media Devices And A Tumultuous Existence Beyond

October 6th, 2011

This Note actually has nothing really to do with Xi’an apart from the fact I am writing it, on a MacBook, in Xi’an, and that I am using a Xi’an based wireless Internet connection. This Note is also not an obituary for Steve Jobs, who passed away yesterday, nor a hallelujah for the Apple products he has bequeathed us, though, I like them. This Note does, however, offer a bit of context to his passing. It also gives me an opportunity to share some of my concerns about the omnipresence of multimedia devices in our lives today. First, a note from Ai Wei Wei, taken from Edge.org’s timely annual question -  How Is The Internet Changing The Way You Think?:

“I only think on the Internet anymore. My thinking is now divided into on the net and off the net. If I’m not on the net, I don’t think that much; when I’m on the net, I start to think. In this way, my thinking becomes always part of something else.”

I will offer some context to Steve Jobs’s passing by way of a link to Malcolm Gladwell’s recent article in The New Yorker: the opening paragraphs of which I will include below. Gladwell outlines the evolution of the mouse, the printer and Apple’s personal computer. In his interesting piece Gladwell focuses on the personalities and environments involved in the development of these products. From it we understand the determination, ingenuity and passion that different types of people, with different motivations, all harnessed to produce technological advances most of us could never have dreamt of.

image taken from itechfuture.com

Malcolm Gladwell – Creation Myth: Xerox PARC, Apple, and Creation of the Mouse from The New Yorker May 2011:

“In late 1979, a twenty-four-year-old entrepreneur paid a visit to a research center in Silicon Valley called Xerox Parc. He was the co-founder of a small computer startup down the road, in Cupertino. His name was Steve Jobs.

Xerox Parc was the innovation arm of the Xerox Corporation. It was, and remains, on Coyote Hill Road, in Palo Alto, nestled in the foothills on the edge of town, in a long, low concrete building, with enormous terraces looking out over the jewels of Silicon Valley. To the northwest was Stanford University’s Hoover Tower. To the north was Hewlett-Packard’s sprawling campus.

All around were scores of the other chip designers, software firms, venture capitalists, and hardware-makers. A visitor to Parc, taking in that view, could easily imagine that it was the computer world’s castle, lording over the valley below—and, at the time, this wasn’t far from the truth…” The New Yorker

Whatever peoples’ take on Steve Jobs and Apple, his work has directly or indirectly influenced most personal computers, mp3s and mobile phone products on the market today, and thus all of us as consumers. Jobs’ passing provides a timely reminder of how the last 40 years of technological development have changed our lives, for both good and bad.

Personal computers are becoming increasingly smaller, more powerful and more ubiquitous; mobile phones are themselves now forms of personal computer. Add to this the variety of software that is now out there; the number of apps; the choice of games, and it is hardly surprising that time spent on personal computers is becoming a major part of people’s days.

There are questions to be asked about where this is all going. Most importantly, what is the nature of our own individual relationships to these devices and the wider world beyond them? Our lives are increasingly spent going online and into web-based social forums with new forms of communication being created all the time. In doing so, we are diluting previous forms of social activity and interaction.

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Beijing Photographer Christopher Cherry And The Walls Of The Forbidden City

September 30th, 2011

I quite like sometimes to get away from the impressions of a China life that I pick up here in Xi’an, or from various China news sites, and just disappear into a world created by a few contemporary China photographs. I wrote a Note back in May profiling part-time photographer Sue Anne Tay, and her work over at Shanghai Street Stories.  Sue Anne adds thoughtful written commentary to her exquisitely revealing images, which makes her site a treasure trove of Shanghai insight.

A friend of mine, Christopher Cherry, who lives in Beijing, is himself an amateur photographer, who, like Sue Anne, belies such a part-time tag with some incisive images of street life in Beijing. His work can be seen here. Chris also has a wonderful way with words, even if he doesn’t often choose to accompany his pictures with them. Which is, as far as I am concerned, a bit of a shame. His talent for the written word can be seen from the articles that he has included on his personal site – christophercherry.net. He has an ability with the pen that helps lift his photographs from the page, but one that also conjures up many more images in the reader’s mind.

I will include a few pictures from a series he is working on at the moment, taken from outside the vermillion walls of the Forbidden City. They offer an aesthetically satisfying backdrop to some very real images of Beijing life. I have added to them a handful more of his pictures; together they create a theme of sorts, which I shall simply call ‘Looking’. Again, more of Chris’s work can be found on his flickr page.

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From Xi’an With Love

September 22nd, 2011

Over the last few years Xi’an has become the place I refer to as home. However, that has not stopped me from recently suffering a few re-integration issues after returning from 2 months back in my official homeland. It felt like no normal re-acclimatization process this time, although, maybe it actually was; it was just not one I am used to experiencing.

When I first arrived in China, 5 or so years ago, I was coming off the back of quite a few months of travel in India. So, as far as I was concerned, Xi’an was an oasis of calm and modernity. Not quite the sentiment others often express when arriving here for the first time, I know. Even if many people backpacking around China do usually find Xi’an a pretty chilled place to hang out for a few days.

The point being, that from my first impressions until recently, Xi’an was a pretty relaxed place to be. I have never felt in need of the advice that was passed on to me when I first arrived in India. There I was told by a few thoughtful and prescient old hands that I should always be aware of looking out for places to retreat to for a few days, or even for the odd week or two.

Whether that place was an isolated beach community, a mountain forest hideaway, a nature reserve, a nice hotel, a temple sanctuary, or just a good bookshop, it was important to find some space and time to escape the intensity of street life in India, which, from time to time, could seep into every pore of your being and every aspect of your thought. (Which is not a criticism by the way). It was advice I took, and it certainly served me well. When I lost sight of it, while moving across the north of India, I suffered.

This isn’t something that I have ever felt applied to life here in Xi’an. My recent re-introduction to Xi’an life, though, has made me re-appraise that perception. Xi’an has by no means reached the epic intensity of daily life in India – it is still so much quieter, cleaner and calmer in comparison, and it does still have a somewhat laid back atmosphere – but there is an indelible mark that a life lived here can now leave on you.

Getting out and about town with the masses in the mornings is to feel the full force of the life changes going on here. Taking a taxi ride around the second ring road, let alone the third, is to get a sense of the scale of the development that is recasting this city. While getting down in amongst the small chéngzhōngcūn(s) at night (city villages), those that still exist, is to really feel the lifeblood of this urban centre. Life here really can grip you.

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Xi’an Has A Metro/ Subway/ Tube/ Underground/ Dìtiě (地铁) – Whatever You Call It, It’s Good

September 16th, 2011

Today, Xi’an’s Underground system officially opened. Which is certainly good news, as it is much needed. On first impressions, it is superbly convenient, well, it is if you are traveling North or South. Although, it must be said that a few of the stations are not in the most accessible of places, but I’m sure we’ll all get used to that. The 4 most southerly stations are not yet in operation. It takes about 15 minutes from the TV Tower (Huizhanzhongxin/会展中心) to Zhōnglóu/钟楼 (the Bell Tower). It costs 2 kuài for up to 6 stops, the maximum price is 4 kuài. The last train at the moment is about 9.30pm.

There is not much more to note, as it is a Subway like any other, it’s just that this one is in Xi’an, which is actually quite strange to realize and experience for the first time. The trains are noticeable for the fact that they don’t seem to be broken down into cars, with joining doorways, but are made up of just one long open carriage. This is the first Line of 6, I am told the East-West line is actually going to come on line in January, its construction having been brought forward as a response to the global credit crunch. Here is a link to Wikipedia’s Metro Map.