Notes From Xi'an 西安随感

Here is a good selection of places that are worth retreating to from time-to-time. There is a brief overview of each below, with many also having their own page with further info. and photographs. I haven’t listed any bars or restaurants as I am sure they will be stumbled across by word-of-mouth or on the odd random night out!

* This page needs sorting out a little since I changed the template I was using, I will get to it soon enough but for now the information is still here just a bit of a mess.

AMY’S CAFE (艾米咖啡馆- Ai4 Mi3 Ka1 Fei1 Guan3)- a peaceful and cosy little place, with a bit of a French feel, partly due to its boutique nature and partly to do with the hand painted artwork on the walls. It is an independent coffee shop, which for Xi’an is definitely a step in the right direction. If you come out of the North Gate of Wai4 Yuan4 (外院)- Xi’an International Studies University- it is just opposite to the left. Click link for more info. and pictures. (Address: 雁塔区昌明路外语学院北门对面艾米咖啡馆)

ART SCHOOL CAFE (Mei3 Yuan4 美院)- sit outside under the trees, surrounded by Artists and a busy road junction! Don’t be put off this is a good spot. It lies directly West of Da4 Yan4 Ta3 (Big Goose Pagoda), start off on Yan Ta Xi1 Lu4 (Goose Pagoda West Road), head West and keep going, it is at the junction at the end of the road, on Han2 Guang1 Nan Lu. More. (Address: 含光南路100号西安美术学院) See Map CLOSED FOR THE WINTER, SHOULD OPEN AGAIN IN MAY。

ART DISTRICT (Yi4 Shu4 Qu1) 艺术区- an Art District modeled on the previously underground though increasingly popular 798 Gallery/Workshop Area in Beijing. It is known here in Xi’an as the ‘Textile City Art Area’ (纺织城艺术区) and it is located in the East of the city, very near to the Ban4 Po1 Ancient Village. More info. if you click the link. (Address: 东边纺西街纺织城艺术区)

BAI3 HUI4 MARKET- Shi4 Chang3 (百汇市场) on Chang2′An1 Lu4 (长安路) in Xiao3 Zhai4 (小寨)- this is one of the major places in town for cheap clothes and DVD’s, increasingly young and fashionable but at a price most can afford. A variety of other shopping opportunities exist close by, including the up-market department store Parksons. Head for Xiao Zhai, the market is just south of Xi’an City Library and the main motorway flyover on Chang’an Lu. (Address: 雁塔区小寨长安路百汇市场)

BOOK CITY TEA LOUNGE (Wan4 Bang1 Shu1 Cheng2 万邦书城- Wan4 Bang1 Book City)- a good spot, a peaceful and comfortable tea house, mixing style with tradition on the second floor of the bookshop on Xiao Zhai Dong1 Lu4, half way between Shaanxi National History Museum and Chang2′An1 Lu. Modern red sofas mixed with traditional furniture, good quality tea, wireless internet and a selection of classical music to buy. More information and pictures. (Address: 雁塔区小寨东路万邦书城)

BOOK CITY (Han4 Tang2 Shu1 Cheng2- 汉唐书城- Han4 Tang2 Book City)- largest book shop in Xi’an, on the junction of Chang An Lu and Yan4 Ta3 Xi Lu in Xiao3 Zhai4. It now, finally, has a reasonable selection of imported English books, from Plato to Potter. Also see SCULPTING IN TIME CAFE below for a new BOOK CITY in Gao1 Xin1, which has a selection of English books, plus the FOREIGN LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE below. (Address: 雁塔区小寨长安路汉唐书城)

C’EST LA VIE BAKERY/CAFE (赛拉维法国烘焙店)- This is a bakery/cafe that sells a selection of freshly made European breads, for Xi’an that is a great new thing. The staff have been trained by an Austrian baker, flown in for the task. They will turn any of their breads into a sandwich, a French baguette included! It has comfortable places to sit, sells good coffee, a selection of fresh drinks and also offers an array of fine looking cakes. A few pictures and extra info. (Address: 高薪区糜家桥小区向北20米高薪路23号)

CHAN BA ECOLOGICAL DISTRICT (浐灞生态区- Chan3 Ba4 Sheng1 Tai4 Qu1)- this is part of a huge water city development on the banks of the river Ba, in the East of Xi’an. It is certainly a work in progress but it does already offer a wetland retreat from the busy down town area of central Xi’an. It was noted in China Grooves that it is a particularly good spot for fishing and jogging, that is about right but it is still not bad for a wander. Click for pictures and more Info. (Address: 东北边浐灞生态区)

CITY WALL GARDENS (环城公园)- Huan2 Cheng2 Gong1 Yuan2- around the outside of the Wall are gardens to hang out in, wander round, picnic in, exercise on and observe age old cultural pastimes enacted within. It is very nice on the south side and south-west corner, a bit more grim on the north side, while just to the right of the East Gate there is a secluded park within a park and a cleaner stretch of river. Of course there is the Wall itself that is well worth a cycle, long stroll or run around.

COFFEE BEANERY- A perfectly civilized Starbuck-esque coffee shop, located in the Chang’An Metropolis Centre, the shiny black building, with BEA Bank, Gucci and Haagen Dazs on the ground floor, just outside the South Gate. For a quiet change of scene, housed as it is in this business/ up-market shopping centre, it is not a bad spot close to the city to retreat too and feel like a succesful businessman for an hour or two. It does sandwiches, soup and freshly made coffee. WiFi. www.coffeebeanery.com.cn (Address: 南关正街88号长安国际广场B座二层- 0298765 1580）

FLEETING TIME CAFE (流年咖啡馆 – liu2 nian2 ka1 fei1 guan3) – A great little spot, instantly my favourite coffee retreat in Xi’an – for it’s independent nature, good coffee, chilled atmosphere and great value. It is run by a lovely couple, one a local Xi’anese, the other a Beijingite. They have created a cool little place, tucked away in the leafy shade at the far end of Shi Da Lu. See more information and photographs here. ( Address: 师大路a-14号－外院后门向东100米路南)

THE FOOD LOFT- a luxury shopping mall food-court, whether traveling through or living here, it may sometimes offer a rest bite. It has big sofa chairs with dining tables. The main reason for going is not necessarily the beer battered fish and chips but for the chocolate brownies, that wash down well with one of their huge fruit salads (noticed recently they have changed the Brownies so this recommendation may not hold). Relaxed with good service. a little more info.（Address: 骡马市步行街兴正元商场六层赋乐)

FOREIGN LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE- on East Street (Dong1 Da4 Jie1) above the big Li3 Ning2 Sports Store (need to go through Li Ning to get to it), it is on the third floor or fourth. A reasonable selection of novels and wider interest hard backs. They do also have quite a good selection of English text books, to help teach the odd Chinese child or 60.

HELLO COFFEE (你好咖啡馆) - This place is a strange anomaly, as it is by all intents and purposes an independent coffee shop but is owned by the Franchisee of the Subway on the ground floor. It has its own menu but the Subway sandwiches can also be eaten upstairs. Hello has a country homestead front room feel; with floral sofas, mock brick fire place, family photos and postcards on the wall. See here for more information and pictures. (Address: 大唐不夜城A-6-1-10105, 大雁塔南广场东南角))

JENNIFER’S CAFE (Jie2 Ni2 Hua1 Ka1 Fei1 Guan3- 婕妮花咖啡馆) -just along from the south gate of the North Western University, on You3 Yi4 Xi Lu (友谊西路), near the northern end of Gao1 Xin1 Lu (高新路). Quiet with a laid back atmosphere and a bit of an ethnic feel- Wireless.click for photographs (Address: 高新区友谊西路127号-西工大南门口西面)

KFC & DICOS- not really for the food, but for a quiet and clean place to study- Chinese style, particularly early mornings. Sitting in KFC for hours studying or chatting, while buying very little or nothing at all, is ok by the Chinese. I can’t say I have quite got used to that yet, but a cheap coffee normally suffices. Upstairs in the Dico’s on Chang’an Lu near Shi Da is not a bad spot to watch the world go by and do some early morning study.

KING COFFEE- on Yan4 Ta3 Xi1 Lu4 (雁塔西路)- see the listing for Yan Ta Xi Lu below- perfectly good coffee, quiet and in a top spot just down from Da Yan Ta (Big Goose Pagoda). Wireless Internet. Plus outside seating in a sort-of terraced garden. There still aren’t that many coffee shops in Xi’an but there is a bit of choice now, before there was either this place or the King Coffee on Nan Da Jie (South Street). more info. on K Coffee shops (Address: 雁塔区雁塔西路25号)

NONO CAFE- wealthy and fashionable clientele. When STARBUCKS arrived in town this place raised its prices over night to match, not wanting to be out down when vying for Xi’an’s elite custom. Evenings are busy and smokey but the day-time is still quite chilled (Wireless). Sells tasty panninis.Walk down South Street (Nan Da Jie- 南大街) on the left with the Bell Tower behind you, turn left after KFC and it is immediately on your left. more info. but no pictures as yet (Address: 西安市南大街东木头市113号- 029 8170 1234)

OSCAR’S CAFE/BAR- It is a small and quirky little place tucked away on a simple side street just off Heping Lu, on 23 Dong Ba Dao Xing, about a 5 minute walk down on the left hand side from Dong da Jie. Oscar’s is run by David, an American student here in Xi’an, it is a chilled spot, with good value drinks, comfortable seating, it is airy and has an intriguing selection of random books scattered about. The hours are unreliable so David suggests phoning in advance- Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings are guaranteed. (Address- 和平路东八道巷二十三号- 029 8742 7770)

QU3 JIANG1 LAKE (HU2)-曲江湖- a huge and impressively landscaped lake in the new Qu Jiang District (Qu1区), just 15 minutes south of the Big Goose Pagoda (Da Yan4 Ta3 大雁塔). It amazingly just seemed to appear over-night. At the weekend, early mornings are best as it gets busy later, during the week no problem. One side of the road is the huge lake for strolling around, the other side of the road is also part of the lake but with much more open parkland for hanging out and enjoying park life. You can rent bikes and boats but you do need a largish deposit so bring some cash. Just a little back from the lake, coming westwards is a nicely landscaped walk through park with playing areas, small ponds and pools, a poetry circle and a couple of nicely landscaped tea houses. It is a very relaxed spot in the evenings. (Address: 曲江区-大雁塔南边唐城墙遗址东边-曲江湖）

REVOLUTION PARK (Ge2 Ming4 Gong1 Yuan2)- good place to retreat to from the city. North of the Sofitel Hotel on the left, down from the train station on the right. Good little lake, benches and ice-cream, plus an old fairground.

SCULPTING IN TIME CAFE (SIT Cafe)- 雕刻时光- Diao1 Ke4 Shi2 Guang1- a very chilled cafe on the right hand-side of Shi Da Lu, opposite Xi’an Foreign Languages University. It mixes a variety of old furniture with a clean, simple design and wooden floors. It is very airy with a lot of window seating, a cool and quiet place- certainly during the day.Western Food and Wireless. Pictures and more info. on their other coffee shops in Xi’an (Address: 雁塔区师大路41号2楼雕刻时光-西安外国语大学对面- 029 8522 8182)

SHAANXI NORMAL UNIVERSITY- 陕西师范大学- Shan3 Xi1 Shi1 Fan4 Da1 Xue2 (also known as SHI1 DA4- 师大)- best campus in Xi’an. It’s a great spot for hanging out surrounded by greenery but also to do some sport in a very peaceful environment. The atmosphere and the activities going on at the running track/sports ground (Tai4 Ji2, Shadow Sword Play, Badminton, Table Tennis, Basketball, Running Track Dog Walking, Work Shoed Running and Large Group Rhythmic Dancing), particularly early mornings and evenings, remind you that you really are in China and that that is a good thing. You can take 600 or 603 buses, amongst others, from Nan Da Jie (South Street) in the city. Ask someone for Shi1 Da4, about 20-30 minutes. Taxis- just ask for Shi Da on Chang2′ An1 Nan2 Lu- 长安南路- Chang’ An South Road. (Address: 雁塔区长安南路师大- 华东服饰广场对面)

SHI1 DA4 LU4 – 师大路- Xi’an’s International Studies University and Shi Da Campus are very close by, so this street has a good student buzz. Shi Da Lu offers alot of local food and some Western food. The western food is found at the VILLAGE CAFE and SCULPTING IN TIME CAFE. There is also a lot of local street food on the near by and more hectic YANG2 JIA1 CUN1, the road directly opposite Shi Da Lu on the other side of Chang’an Lu. A little more info. (Address: 雁塔区长安南路师大路) See Map

SMALL WILD GOOSE PAGODA- 小雁塔- XIAO3 YAN 4 TA3- this is a great place to hang out. The ancient pagoda is set in a very well landscaped and peaceful park area. I was, for a while, put off by the entry price (50 yuan) but subsequently discovered the Shaanxi Tourism Ticket 旅游年票-lv3you2 nian2piao4 (from the Post Office) that costs 68 yuan and allows free entry for a year! You can relax here for hours. Pictures and more info. click on the link (Address: 友谊西路72号-029-8780 3591) See Map

SHU1 YUAN4 MEN2 殊院门 and XIANG1 ZI3 MEN2 YOUTH HOSTELS 湘子门青年旅舍 by the South Gate- SHU1 YUAN4 HOSTEL (lv3 she4) is quite a relaxed place to hang out, depending on the time of year I suppose. It has a number of airy and comfortable seating areas and a sort of outside seating area at the back of the hostel ( a partial glass roof a couple of floors up prevents rain descending). Sells pizza and real coffee relatively cheap for Xi’an. click for more info. and info. on Xiang Zi Men Hostel

YAN4 TA3 XI1 LU4- 雁塔西路- Goose Pagoda West Road- specifically the part just down from the Pagoda on the West side, known as DA4TANG2 TONG1YI4FANG3 (大唐通易坊). It has a well designed array of restaurants (Indian, Malaysian, Fusion, Korean), bars and cafes with well-landscaped outside seating areas. It retains a traditional calm feel with a buzz at night, a mix of locals going for a stroll and others going out. More info. and pictures. (Address: 雁塔区雁塔西路大唐通易坊）

YAO YAO’S ICE CREAM SHOP (瑶瑶冰淇淋) Yao2 Yao2 Bing1 Qi4 Lin2- upstairs is a sort of quaint little cafe that also sells tea and coffee, it’s either quiet or full of young locals hanging out. On Chang2′An1 Lu4 just turn left from Yan4 Ta3 Xi Lu, or if coming from the city pass Book City on your left, go through the big junction and it is just down on the left. Opposite here in the underground shopping plaza is a multiplex cinema, which has another KING COFFEE (this one only opens from 1pm-9pm) next door on the ground floor, this King Coffee is very quiet with a lot of comfortable seating, a good spot for a bit of studying. Wireless. The North end of this plaza is noticeable for the graffiti that decorates the area.(Address: 雁塔区长安南路纬二街十字南雁塔文化广场对面)