Notes From Xi'an 西安随感

It was only recently that I stepped away from 10 years of vegetarianism, so it is only now that I am able to start savouring Xi’an’s local meaty delicacies. I enjoyed my first Roger Moore (ròu jīa mó/ 肉夹馍) not so long ago, while just before I headed back to Britain recently a local friend of mine, Jenny, introduced me to pàomó ( 泡馍) and xiǎochǎo (小炒), dishes that hold legendary status in these parts. Pàomó is the soupy version, while Xiǎochǎo is fried. I must say I preferred the xiǎochǎo for its flavour and texture, although, that may be had something to do with the sweet pickled cloves of garlic they served up on a small plate with it.

Jenny took me to two of the more famous spots in Xi’an for these dishes, both in the Muslim Quarter (see below). She also took me for dessert at the best yuánxiāo (元宵) stall in town, which is just a couple of doors down from the xiǎochǎo restaurant. Anytime is a good time for eating yuánxiāo (元宵) as they are hot, sweet and tasty, but the real time for partaking in a yuánxiāo or two is on the 15th day of the first lunar month – the Lantern Festival - which falls this year on February 6th. I have added a couple of pictures below and simple directions to this stall and the other two restaurants, as they are all good spots to eat during these cold winter months but particularly because the Lantern Festival will soon be with us. All three are in the Muslim Quarter.

P.S. Don’t forget when you are ordering the pàomó and xiǎochǎo that you have to choose how much bread you want – I had 3 mó, Jenny had 2 (mó is a dry, round, flatbread made traditionally from wheat flour, the same bread that is used for the ròu jīa mó) - and that you have to tear it up yourself, so be prepared as it seems a strange thing to have to do to start with and it takes a while.

Pàomó (泡馍) in Xi'an - This restaurant is renowned amongst locals, and if you don't get there about 10.30ish or earlier you won't get lunch because as soon as they sell out they close. Lǎo Liú Jiā Pàomó Restuarant is on Nán Guǎng Jì Jiē (南广济街). This is the road that goes into the Muslim Quarter from in between Parksons Shopping Centre on West Street. Just as you go through onto the small street into the Muslim Quarter, from the main road, the restaurant is immediately on your right. It is not the Drum Tower entrance.

Xiǎochǎo (小炒) in Xi'an - This place is on Dà Pí Yuàn (大皮院) and you can get to it from either entrance coming from west street, but I will describe it from the Drum Tower entrance onto Běi Yuàn Mén. This is the main street into the Muslim Quarter. You walk straight up this busy cobbled street and do not turn left onto the first lane, which is Xī Yáng Shì. You continue to the end of běi yuàn mén, and at the main road at the end you turn left - that is Dà Pí Yuàn. You have to walk quite away along looking for the sign above on the right of the road. The yuánxiāo place below is just a couple of doors down.

Yuánxiāo (元宵) in Xi'an - The same instructions as above. You can see the characters 元宵店 (yuánxiāo diàn/ yuan xiao shop) on the red sign at the back.

We will see if starting the year with these city wall shots has any symbolic significance, though, if we take Hu Jintao at his word there is a good chance they will. See here [China's New Cultural Revolution], here and here. These ideas taken together with those outlined in the following article  [Global Unrest: How the Revolution went Viral] point towards a world where modern cultural revolutions – and probably not just those outlined above – clash, or clash further. Economies across the world are struggling, the environment could do with the clock being turned back on it, and unemployment is rising everywhere. Public spending – certainly in Europe and the US – is being cut, and there are less and less opportunities for young people: graduates and non-graduates alike.

Many are seeing life, in both economic and spiritual terms, as offering fewer and fewer chances of growth and stability than was even experienced by their parents – which is not how it is supposed to be. It does not get any rosier if we consider Paul Mason’s conclusion to his above essay (‘How the Revolution went Viral‘), where he compares the technological freedom and revolution of today with the period that preceded the Great War of 1914. Mason does, however, see hope in these networked communities being able to highlight – and potentially counter – today’s cases of authoritarianism and brutality. I will flesh out my thoughts on some of these things in another Note and when I do I will tap into my own high levels of hardwired optimism - and then we’ll see where we can go.

Additional Articles on China Cultural Wars: Beijing’s ‘Culture War’ Isn’t About the U.S.—It’s About China’s Future (The Atlantic) / China’s Culture Wars (The New Yorker)/ How To Lose A Culture War (The Useless Tree)

Ps. It is cold up on the wall this time of year but still worth a wander with a camera.

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After the doom and overwhelming gloom of late September and early October’s weather, it has been fantastic recently to be able to get out and about under a few clear skies and a good bit of sun again. It is only, however, a matter of time before those coal chimneys are fired up, so I have been taking this chance to get out and about as much as possible. I have been doing so with my camera in hand, just trying to actually learn how to use it. This has meant turning off all the automatic settings and trying to use it like my old manual camera.  慢慢来.

First stop, it was out to Bridges Cafe in Gāoxīn, to snap a few pictures that I have been meaning to take for a while, so I could add it to the Coffee Shops Page. Next up, was a pre-dawn ride into the city to get a few early morning pictures at Lián Hú Gōng Yuán 莲湖公园. It is the park tucked in behind the Muslim Quarter 回民街 (Huímínjiē), and is where the locals gather for their morning exercises. The fast changing early morning light meant it was good for working on getting the shutter speed and aperture combinations right, or it would have been if I had actually got them right.  Finally, it was down to Qǔ​jiāng Lake 曲江池 to get a few sunset shots. The 池 (chí) actually translates as pool or reservoir, but generally seems to be referred to as a lake. It certainly looks lake like to me. It was worth the trip. This really is a top spot when the crowds aren’t around:

Qǔ jiāng Lake: 42mm f/11 1/250 ISO 100

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Before I write this Note, I am going to make a bold statement about it. I am going to make the claim that it will become the definitive: “What Is It About Xi’an That Makes It Xi’an And Makes It The Place People Like To Live?” Note. However, before any of you think I have lost my humble marbles in a blur of blogging arrogance I would like to offer a condition and an invitation.

First, this is an invitation to all of you out there who live here, or have done so recently, to add your own brief note in the comments section below about what Xi’an is to you, and what makes it different from other Chinese cities, even different from other places on earth. Plus, simply, what you like about it, as well as some of the things that you don’t quite like so much.

Second, the condition. The condition being that this will only be the definitive Note if those of you out there with experience of living in Xi’an do share your thoughts with us. This certainly won’t be the definitive Note if it is just written from my perspective.

Hopefully, if we can get this thread going we can provide a good stop off point for people who want to get to know a bit about Xi’an. There are now a good number of people that find their way to this site from different parts of the globe, who have different ideas about Xi’an, and about potential reasons for coming here. We can hopefully offer them a few pointers in the direction, whatever direction they do end up going in. So, whether its personal impressions and thoughts on Xi’an, bits of historical knowledge, circumstances where expectations were changed, or times when they really weren’t, or just a few spots in and around the city that you think are worth checking out, feel free to write about them below.

Thanks in advance, I look forward to reading. First, my own contribution, which I will also kick off in the comments section:

I live not far from Xi’an’s Botanical Gardens [Zhíwù Yuán/植物园], which are located behind Shǎnxī Normal University, but I haven’t taken a trip over there for a while. This is not because I have anything against fine varieties of plant life, I actually had a couple of temporary jobs working on horticultural nurseries when I was younger, and if all else failed I would probably go back to it. There are not too many things quite as meditative and peaceful as watering plants on a glorious summer morning.

I have also always enjoyed visiting public gardens, from Kew and Wentworth to Brisbane’s own Botanics, via Córdoba and Marakesh. However, on my last visit to Xi’an’s variety of Botanical Garden it did feel as if a lot more could be done with the space they have. Now, this seems to have changed, although not quite in the way one would imagine.

This week, my camera-clicking sidekick, Sir G. Blackett of Wells, and I decided that we should put down our coffee cups and see if we could catch Xi’an’s short Spring in full bloom. It was not, though, a multi-coloured array of flora and fauna that ended up capturing our attention. It was a particular sub-specie of Chinese marital ritual that we observed, wandered around, pointed at, discussed and took pictures of. It was the ritual known as the pre-marriage photo shoot.

It is not an exaggeration to say that shrub, flower and tree life is no longer the focus of attention. Delicate planting procedures, rare plant species, and flowers in full seasonal bloom are now simply a backdrop for the more important business of getting young Chinese couples to create the most unnatural poses possible. For those unaware, as part of the wedding celebrations here in China, couples pay a few thousand yuan for a professional photo studio to snap exceptionally contrived poses in generally natural environments, the Botanical Gardens being one such location. (more…)

The New Year began over this way with an early morning run at Shī Dà (师大), in the hope that this sort of behaviour will assume a more habitual character in 2011 than it did in 2010. But, it wasn’t only good to get out for a run, it was also good just to be part of one of those Shaanxi Normal University mornings again. I think I took as much from watching a guy practicing tàijíquán, with inspiring levels of precision and stillness, as I did from running a few short-of-breath inducing laps around the track.

It is always great to wander in through the gates at Shī Dà and to be greeted by those twisted old trees and those drooping branches of pine, especially during those early hours, although not necessarily especially on these cold days. This campus is for me the best park equivalent or natural environment to escape to in this fair city, apart from may be the grounds surrounding the Small Goose Pagoda.

As you enter the Campus from Chang’an Lu you will still find three lanes of tarmac tapering off ahead of you, but instead of being filled by spluttering traffic they are filled with student footsteps and cheerful chatter. While those uniquely gnarled old trees soon give way to carefully trimmed shrub borders and tree lined avenues, with a few twenty foot high palms seemingly along for the stroll.

There are small areas of shrubs and stone seating spaces scattered all around the campus, which contribute to the peaceful and tranquil atmosphere; an atmosphere not simply apparent in the mornings but also one that manages to be maintained even when the student masses burst onto the scene. (more…)

Just a brief travel note to highlight the joys found a few kilometres outside of central Xi’an, in amongst the Qin Ling Mountains. A mountain range that stretches East to West, marks a natural boundary between China’s North and South and is easily accessible from Xi’an’s city centre. There will also be a quick nod at the end towards Oscar’s Café/ bar.

In the last year or two, whether by bike or bus, I have increasingly edged further into the mountain landscape that surrounds this great city. Last weekend, we headed out again to a mountain forest park. The park here is great for an escape into nature; the climb isn’t too brutal and it’s set in beautiful pine forest surroundings. There are an increasing number of those concrete crafted picnic spots, but they are seemingly learning to incorporate more wood into the production process than has been seen in other Chinese nature retreats. Also, even if the view at the top is itself hampered by those same forest pines it is fantastic being on the mountain, knowing that Xi’an is only a couple of hours a way in reality, miles away in feeling.

For this particular spot, get yourself on the 19 bus going East, where that bus stops get off and get on the 4-08 (not 408), which heads south- west. It will take you directly to Xiang Yu Sen Lin Gong Yuan 祥峪森林 – Xiang Yu Forest Park, just outside the small town of Dong Da 东大, still in Chang’an Qu 长安区. It is only about an hour and half outside of Xi’an. Or, find your way to the new university campus area and pick up the 4-08 there, or… just ride a bike, a san lun che 三轮车, a motorbike, a moped, drive or rent a car. (I have the number of a driver we used while we were out there, who also said he would take people out of Xi’an to the mountains – if I remember, for about 70 Yuan- a cheerful and chatty chap- his number is 15929979803) (more…)

[updated Jan. 2012] Reading and listening to so many negative, one-sided, manipulative, smug and condescending voices on things China recently (and they were just my own!), I feel like simply writing a brief note reminding myself of why I like living in Xi’an.

First and foremost, I like the people that surround me on a day-to-day basis, the Xi’anese. They are a matter-of-fact bunch, a straightforward lot, and a generally supportive and friendly collection of people. I generalise on the basis of the impressions that have been planted within me during the last three [5] years. I like Xi’an, I like the people and I like living here. [although there is too much traffic now and too many shopping malls] We of course must take into account the fact I am a Laowai (老外) and thus I am treated, generally, with a slightly friendlier and more helpful hand than some members of the Chinese community might experience. Though, this may also depend on the extent of each individual Laowai’s forbearance in the face of things China and Chinese. (more…)

[Updated Nov. 18th 2010 for The Xianease Magazine] This is just a brief note about a Xi’an based artist that this time last year my girlfriend and I were fortunate to come across. After enjoying a hearty hot pot dinner one December night, we strolled up towards the new Art Gallery on Dà Táng Bú Yè Chéng (大唐不夜城), the street directly south of Da Yan Ta (Big Goose Pagoda). By the time we got there it was after 9 and the place was quite quiet, most of the small galleries had already closed and so we decided to have a look around the excellent bookstore.

After which I took out my camera to shoot a couple of pictures before we left. While I was doing so a couple of gentleman spotted a Laowai and decided to engage him in conversation. I responded by showing interest in this new art venue, an interest that led them to excitedly introduce us to their companion, the local Artist Xú Bù (徐步), who was exhibiting his work in the huge gallery upstairs.

This was, we discovered, to be the last day and the last night of his show and we were to end up being the last guests. It was only because the artist himself guided us up the stairs that the security guards kindly extended their shift and allowed some extra time for us to look around. It was much appreciated, as it was a pleasure to be introduced to his work.

This was not simply because the artist was giving us a guided tour or that I actually liked it, but because Xú Bù 徐步 himself actually seemed to represent the essence of these paintings and maybe even traditional Chinese art and culture generally. This was not just through his vital, uplifting words but also through the simple manner in which he moved and communicated those words. There was humility within his utterances and a controlled, meditative grace in his movement.

He spoke of rising canyon mists, hazy pine forests on China’s mountain slopes, of river fogs and wooded winter chills but the mountain forests and the distant peaks were also simply apparent in his being. They were in the calm movements as he turned, they were in each weighted glance he took from person to painting, they were in the soft sound beneath his words and they were in his distant, separating stares across the gallery. His work contained this elemental freedom that must only come from so much time lost in the natural world.

Though, he did note that he always returns home to actually paint. From my perspective, the swirling mountain winds had found a way through him onto the canvas. This is a freedom that cannot always be recognized in what can seem a somewhat restrictive art form. Xú Bù 徐步 himself even noted a requirement to quite literally copy, time and again, the great masters, before it is possible to discover one’s own style and self-expression. To my untrained eye, he had certainly discovered his.

We ended up on this chilly, late December evening wandering back with him to the simple surrounds of Shi Da’s campus, near to where he lived. As we were about to bid farewell he requested we wait a moment by the gate while he popped home to take something. He returned promptly with some books of his work; for myself, for my girlfriend and for her younger brother, each of which he signed with a brief note in a flourishing script, before quietly gesturing goodnight and making his way home to his family. A good man!

This was a large exhibition, with some huge pieces of work, the depth of which, he said, even some of his friends and colleagues were surprised about, but it was previously and will be again, rolled up and put away in 徐步’s home. This same story will be repeated all over Xi’an and other such city centres of Art. There is no space for their work to be shown permanently or I suppose no finance to find it. I make no judgment about that in terms of practicality and value just simply note that it does seem a bit sad.

But, whatever the wider situation, it was good to have seen his work, as it was recently also good to have seen an exhibition at the same place that cataloged the work of 20 of China’s best ‘real life’ photographers. This gallery on Dà Táng Bú Yè Chéng (大唐不夜城) is may be worth checking out a bit more often than I have been doing.

Xi’an, Xi’an, Xi’an!

I liked it when I first arrived and I like it now. We can complain about this and that, I probably do, I certainly have, but I enjoy living here. I read somewhere recently someone bemoaning the lack of running opportunities here in Xi’an, or more specifically, the negatives about actually putting foot to tarmac in this fair city. They are, for sure, not far wrong in their appraisal; however, air pollution or not, regular bike riding and somewhat irregular running have allowed me to run up the 4 flights of stairs to my flat without a breath out of place and that’s not something I’ve always been able to do. I will now of course, after making such a statement, contract one horrible lung infection or other but hey ho! It is, a little, like riding these motorbike taxis here; I like them, I like it, it feels great but it could of course be the death of me. I will live that chance, so to speak. ps. If you’ve never hung out or been for a run at Shi Da’s campus/running track, it comes recommended. (more…)

Xi’an. Modern City, city of the ancients, city of technology, science and education, city of a city wall, city of the Buddha’s finger, city of Emperors, city of conquest, city of contradiction.

An ancient city of culture without culture, a contemporary culture sublimating a culture, a city finding balance in a future culture. The bright lights of a night city pagoda’s entertainment mall, wide freeways and san lun ches (三轮车s). Warmth, hospitality, overpricing, free drinks, lao wai (老外), differences and not a few similarities. Simplicity, clarity, haziness and pollution. Sixty in a class, extra curricula classes, never enough classes, I like my classes, I like my classmates, I like my school, I like my country. My country likes me.

River people, widowed people, homeless people, newly-housed people, proud people, loud people, peaceful people, people of a time, people of a place. Xi’an’s people. Silent people, singing people, walled-in people, self-determined people, educated people, un-educated people, realistic people, hopeful people. Different people.

Free will, no will. Expansion, development, disrepair, has been repaired, still needs to be repaired. Newly built, not really built, needs to be rebuilt. Does matter, doesn’t matter. What matters? Food matters. This food, that food, what food, whose food? Our food. Have much, don’t have much, don’t want much, want what I haven’t got, got what I haven’t got. Warriors, borrowers, investors, debtors, jokers, jesters, trustees, trust hers, trust whose? Winning smiles, legs for miles, public trials and McDonalds selling  freedom fries.

Working life, lived life, living life, life of the past, life of the present, I like life. Xi’an’s life. Xi’an’s people. Zhong Lou, Nan Da Jie, Xiao Zhai, Bai Hui, Gao Xin, Chang’ An Lu. Happy people, sad people, living people. Xi’an’s people. We are those people.