Just a brief travel note to highlight the joys found a few kilometres outside of central Xi’an, in amongst the Qin Ling Mountains. A mountain range that stretches East to West, marks a natural boundary between China’s North and South and is easily accessible from Xi’an’s city centre. There will also be a quick nod at the end towards Oscar’s Café/ bar.
In the last year or two, whether by bike or bus, I have increasingly edged further into the mountain landscape that surrounds this great city. Last weekend, we headed out again to a mountain forest park. The park here is great for an escape into nature; the climb isn’t too brutal and it’s set in beautiful pine forest surroundings. There are an increasing number of those concrete crafted picnic spots, but they are seemingly learning to incorporate more wood into the production process than has been seen in other Chinese nature retreats. Also, even if the view at the top is itself hampered by those same forest pines it is fantastic being on the mountain, knowing that Xi’an is only a couple of hours a way in reality, miles away in feeling.
For this particular spot, get yourself on the 19 bus going East, where that bus stops get off and get on the 4-08 (not 408), which heads south- west. It will take you directly to Xiang Yu Sen Lin Gong Yuan 祥峪森林 – Xiang Yu Forest Park, just outside the small town of Dong Da 东大, still in Chang’an Qu 长安区. It is only about an hour and half outside of Xi’an. Or, find your way to the new university campus area and pick up the 4-08 there, or… just ride a bike, a san lun che 三轮车, a motorbike, a moped, drive or rent a car. (I have the number of a driver we used while we were out there, who also said he would take people out of Xi’an to the mountains – if I remember, for about 70 Yuan- a cheerful and chatty chap- his number is 15929979803)
Whatever variety of transport you choose it is well worth the effort. This is a wide mountain range, with a wide range of mountains to choose from. Cui Hua Shan is also a popular destination (though not to be confused with the epic Hua Shan) and definitely a good area to visit; for that take the 905 on Zhang Ba Dong Lu 丈八东 路 at the end of the road, just before it turns out onto Chang’an Lu heading south next to the TV Tower. These two spots are both set in their own park area, with 20 and 70 Yuan entrance fees respectively.
The Nong Jia Le 农家乐 (a rural B&B) is also well worth an overnight stay. Cui Hua Shan has small, very basic family homes at the summit where you can stay for a night with very small cost (20-30 Yuan). At the entrance to this park there were also a number of guesthouses but we headed down from the mountain, to the plains. Just before you get back to the near by town there are a few of these fishing pool Nong Jia Le’s.
A few of the locals have basically converted their fields into a pool-like fish pond, where you can fish for free, pay for what you catch and then have it barbequed. 
The place we stayed, that comes recommended, was called Zhuo Yue Nong Zhuang 桌越农庄 Tel: 13488113006, it’s between 30-50 Yuan a room. It is in walking distance outside of the small town, just head out past the University towards the mountains and it’s on the left, the 4-08 goes right by it. So close to Xi’an, so far away. Climb during the day, fish in the afternoon, eat a hearty feast, enjoy the views early evening and, as I was finally introduced to it, play a bit of competitive Ma Jiang 麻将 (Mah Jong in English) come night fall. All is well here in Xi’an.
Especially, as I tracked down Oscar’s Cafe/Bar for the first time this week. Oscar’s is a cool little spot that I found out about thanks to Sumner over at China Grooves. It is a small, comfortable and quirky little place, tucked away on a simple side street just off Heping Lu, on Dong Ba Dao Xing, the road parallel and south to where the old Jazz bar used to be. Oscar’s is run by David, who, by his own admission, is living here in Xi’an with the extra bit of freedom the life of a student allows. Not only does that mean easing along a path towards Chinese fluency, but a bit of café ownership, some dabbling in the art of documentary making and, if that wasn’t enough, the writing of a paper on the role or representation of Chinese Nationalism in Sport.
David did note that opening times are a bit sketchy during the week, a phone call in advance may be the order of the day (13572294054), though Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday nights there is a guaranteed presence. It is a chilled little place, with good value drinks, comfortable seating, it is airy and has an intriguing selection of random books scattered about- the poetry of Philip Larkin, the thoughts of Che Guevara and a story of the Bartlebys, ‘Bartleby & Co’, to name but a few. The latter, by Enrique Vila-Matas, starts with the lines: ‘I never had much luck with women. I have a pitiful hump, which I am resigned to. All my closest relatives are dead. I am a poor recluse working in a ghastly office. Apart from that, I am happy.’ All is well.
A good chap and good spot- David that is, not the character above, who may well of course also be. This is David’s blog: www.talesoftigers.com
西安