[updated Jan. 2012] The city centre is surrounded by an ancient city wall with the main routes out of the city all passing through one of a variety of gates, the largest being simply the North, East, South and West gates. I live in the south, about a 20-minute taxi ride or a 30-minute bus ride [now a 10-15 minute subway ride] from the centre of the city, which is marked by the Bell Tower (see below). Taxis are easy to flag down, run on a meter, are relatively cheap and are often used when first arriving as bus routes in Chinese characters can be somewhat daunting at first and, depending on mood, somewhat depressing later.
When you do start getting the buses or even when getting a taxi do not wait for those around you to usher you in, or recognise that you arrived first, if you do you will be waiting some time. What is though interesting and begins to reveal the street level value of life here, is that even in the hurly burly of getting on a bus or asserting your right to get the next taxi you will very rarely if ever come across anger and violence. Over and above the seeming disorder is a quiet civility and respect. It is maybe not always obvious to the eye on first arrival but it is there. The best and most frequent examples are the regular near miss scenarios between pedestrian and cyclist, motorcyclist and cyclist, bus and car, and taxi and everything, but the absolute lack of aggression in these circumstances; verbally or physically.
I am not speaking for the whole of China, though sometimes my tone may mislead and I apologize for that, but from my experience of living in Xi’an now for nearly three [5] years. I have so rarely seen public displays of anger and certainly not actual physical abuse. A superficial observation is that it seems the people here are accepting of circumstance, something happens, they get on with it. One of the nicest things about living here is this absence of aggression in these day-day situations, when back in Britain we attain or witness various levels of anger and abuse on a semi-regular basis.
My preferred form of transport is motorbike taxi, which are supposedly illegal but exceptionally useful and if illegal the government should really attempt some form of licensing. [as the roads have got busier they are maybe more dangerous and there are actually fewer of them now as well] The remarkable thing about the motorbike and moped riders here is that they are nearly all helmet-less, it is actually the thing I like about it. Though, with the rate of car increase sooner rather than later it will become a little too dangerous. Not that I have ever been one for wearing a helmet while cycling, but there will come a point where a motorbike and helmet will form the same symbiotic relationship they have in the West.
Xi’an is in the West of China and is considered somewhat “out west”. These are some of the last remnants of the Chinese Wild West. Xi’an is quickly on the change, development is coming and it is now coming quickly, but the heart under the surface is I believe, for now atleast, still maintained. The people are friendly and there is an openness and innocence that is so refreshing to be around. There is hope and excitement but a feeling of pressure, and the perception that the opportunities that these greater levels of development supposedly supply may well actually pass most by.
The question will be how will all this manifest here in Xi’an, here in China. Why I love living here is because of some of the above but also because we are in the middle of all this and they/ we don’t know where it is going. These are good people, who just want to face the life as best they can, as we all do, let’s hope we all get that chance. I for one feel very lucky to be living this life and experiencing all this here in Xi’an. I am not sure if these Notes have done Xi’an or my views on Xi’an justice but no doubt I will uncover more about life here as these Notes continue.
See the main Xi’an Centred Notes Page for more:
Tags: Xi'an
西安