Pàomó (泡馍), Xiǎochǎo (小炒) And A Few Lantern Festival Yuánxiāo (元宵) – In Xi’an

January 25th, 2012

It was only recently that I stepped away from my 10 years of vegetarianism, so it is only now that I am able to start savouring Xi’an’s local meaty delicacies. I enjoyed my first Roger Moore (ròu jīa mó/ 肉夹馍) not so long ago, while just before heading back to Britain recently a local friend of mine introduced me to pàomó ( 泡馍) and xiǎochǎo (小炒), dishes that hold legendary status in these parts. Pàomó is the soupy version, while Xiǎochǎo is fried. I must say I preferred the xiǎochǎo for its flavour and texture, although, that may be had something to do with the sweet pickled cloves of garlic they served up on a small plate with it.

This old friend of mine took me to two of the more famous spots in Xi’an for these dishes, both in the Muslim Quarter. She also took me for dessert at the best yuánxiāo (元宵) stall in town, which is just a couple of doors down from the xiǎochǎo restaurant. Anytime is a good time for eating yuánxiāo (元宵) as they are damn tasty, but the real time for partaking in a yuánxiāo or two is on the 15th day of the first lunar month – the Lantern Festival - which falls this year on February 6th. I have added a couple of pictures below and simple directions to this stall and the other two restaurants, as they are all good spots to eat during these cold winter months, but particularly because the Lantern Festival will soon be with us. All three are in the Muslim Quarter.

P.S. Don’t forget if you are ordering the pàomó and xiǎochǎo you have to choose how much bread you want – I had 3 mó, Jenny had 2 (mó is a dry, round, flatbread made traditionally from wheat flour, the same bread that is used for the ròu jīa mó) - and you have to tear it up yourself into small chunks, so be prepared as it seems a strange thing to have to do to start with and it takes a while.

Pàomó (泡馍) in Xi'an - This restaurant is renowned amongst locals, and if you don't get there about 10.30ish or earlier you won't get lunch because as soon as they sell out they close. Lǎo Liú Jiā Pàomó Restuarant is on nán guǎng jì jiē (南广济街). This is the road that goes into the Muslim Quarter from in between Parksons Shopping Centre on West Street. Just as you go through onto the small street into the Muslim Quarter, from the main road, the restaurant is immediately on your right. It is not the Drum Tower entrance.

Xiǎochǎo (小炒) in Xi'an - This place is on Dà pí yuàn (大皮院) and you can get to it from either entrance coming from west street, but I will describe it from the Drum Tower entrance onto Běi yuàn mén. This is the main street into the Muslim Quarter. You walk straight up this busy cobbled street and do not turn left onto the first lane, which is xī yáng shì. You continue to the end of běi yuàn mén, and at the main road at the end you turn left - that is Dà pí yuàn. You have to walk quite away along looking for the sign above on the right of the road. The yuánxiāo place below is just a couple of doors down.

Yuánxiāo (元宵) in Xi'an - The same instructions as above. You can see the characters 元宵店 (yuánxiāo diàn/ yuan xiao shop) on the red sign at the back.

Back In The Village With Spring Festival In The Air

January 16th, 2012

Groom's Favourite Uncle Getting Into Character

After being away from Xi’an for a week over Christmas, we returned to Xi’an for a week before happily setting off again – it is always good to take a break or two from city life. This time it was down to my wife’s village for a pre-Spring Festival visit. It was an especially important trip to make, as I am not going to be around for the New Year celebrations themselves – the one time of year that the extended Chinese family do get a chance to be together. I will be off visiting my own family back in Great Britain.

We also needed to head back to the village as one of Ling’s relatives was getting married. No matter whether or not there is love between marrying Chinese villagers – and there is often a distinct lack of it – I always enjoy being part of Chinese village marriages, if for no other reason than that they are full of local people, local customs and local food: aspects of Chinese life that I do not experience every day.

Tables, chairs, bowls and chopsticks are rented, while the home’s courtyard fills with family, neighbours and friends. The ritual of beating down the bride’s bedroom door – almost literally – is followed before she is carried off to her future by her soon-to-be husband. At this point the bride is leaving her family to become part of the groom’s home, although, not before the couple host a banquet in the front yard, a custom that requires the individual toasting of nearly every single guest. After this, and depending on the distance between the homes, a fleet of black cars conveys the couple and accompanying entourage to a location close to the groom’s family home, where a sedan chair will be waiting.

Uncle About To Carry Bride

The in-laws, dressed in traditional costume, parade around the garishly decorated chair, while a drum beat sounds their new daughter’s arrival. The bride is often quite unceremoniously hoisted from the car and placed within the sedan chair, where family members carry her home, rocking the chair wildly as they go. En route, a few surreptitiously positioned members of the groom’s family will stage a mock defence to keep the bride away: a custom that can lead to tempers boiling over. On arrival at the new home, a quite procedural kind of wedding ceremony follows, although, this depends on the love that actually exists between the couple.  Then the real eating begins. At this particular wedding, with Spring Festival just around the corner, it meant even more food than normal, and particularly more meat.

At this time of year both the preparation and eating of food is high on everyone’s agenda. Staple foods include pigs’ intestines, pigs’ ears and pigs’ trotters. In our own celebrations back at home, or here in Xi’an, most of us will be stocking up from our local supermarkets. Not so in the village. Pigs are slaughtered and winter vegetables are harvested in great quantities from the fields. Tofu and noodles are freshly made at home in huge fire-lit woks, while bowls are filled to the brim with steaming rice soups and heaving chunks of potato.

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6 Xi’an City Wall Images To Start The Year With (And A Couple Of Cultural Revolutions)

January 3rd, 2012

We will see if starting the year with these city wall shots has any symbolic significance, though, if we take Hu Jintao at his word there is a good chance they will. See here [China's New Cultural Revolution], here and here. These ideas taken together with those outlined in the following article  [Global Unrest: How the Revolution went Viral] point towards a world where modern cultural revolutions – and probably not just those outlined above – clash, or clash further. Economies across the world are struggling, the environment could do with the clock being turned back on it, and unemployment is rising everywhere. Public spending – certainly in Europe and the US – is being cut, and there are less and less opportunities for young people: graduates and non-graduates alike.

Many are seeing life, in both economic and spiritual terms, as offering fewer and fewer chances of growth and stability than was even experienced by their parents – which is not how it is supposed to be. It does not get any rosier if we consider Paul Mason’s conclusion to his above essay above (‘How the Revolution went Viral‘), where he compares the technological freedom and revolution of today with the period that preceded the Great War of 1914. Mason does, however, see hope in these networked communities being able to highlight – and potentially counter – today’s cases of authoritarianism and brutality. I will flesh out my thoughts on some of these things in another Note, but when I do I will do so while tapping into high levels of hardwired optimism - and then we’ll see where we can go.

Additional Articles on China Culture Wars: Beijing’s ‘Culture War’ Isn’t About the U.S.—It’s About China’s Future (The Atlantic) / China’s Culture Wars (The New Yorker)

Ps. It is cold up on the wall this time of year but still worth a wander with a camera.

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6 China Articles To End The Year With

December 30th, 2011

I will end the year here by simply including the opening extracts from 6 China related articles that I have found – in the last few days – to be worth dwelling on. The articles offer more than just a closing down of the year in review; they add a bit of context to what we might expect coming up over the year ahead – or longer term.

i. When China Rules by Ivan Krastev at Project Syndicate

‘For a European these days, thinking about the future is disturbing. America is militarily overstretched, politically polarized, and financially indebted. The European Union seems on the brink of collapse, and many non-Europeans view the old continent as a retired power that can still impress the world with its good manners, but not with nerve or ambition. Global opinion surveys over the last three years consistently indicate that many are turning their backs on the West and – with hope, fear, or both – see China as moving to center stage. As the old joke goes, optimists are learning to speak Chinese; pessimists are learning to use a Kalashnikov.

While a small army of experts argues that China’s rise to power should not be assumed, and that its economic, political, and demographic foundations are fragile, the conventional wisdom is that China’s power is growing. Many wonder what a global Pax Sinica might look like: How would China’s global influence manifest itself? How would Chinese hegemony differ from the American variety? Generally, questions of ideology, economics, history, and military power dominate today’s China debate. But, when comparing today’s American world with a possible Chinese world of tomorrow, the most striking contrast consists in how Americans and Chinese experience the world beyond their borders. …continue reading

ii. Havel, China And Africa by Howard W. French at howardwfrench.com

‘I am eager to read Chinese news accounts of the life and death of Vaclav Havel, whose central message might be summed up as the necessity for individuals everywhere to cast off their apathy and assume their rights – and agency – as citizens: http://news.xinhuanet.com/english/world/2011-12/18/c_131313633.htm The death of this figure of major importance to the history of the late- and post-Cold War world will inevitably generate talk that is heavily focused on Europe, just as the attention of the Western media and foreign ministries tended to stay almost exclusively bracketed on this region (with China, for a time, serving as a crucial exception) as the Berlin Wall came down and the Soviet Union crumbled.

Scarcely noted around that time, were citizens’ democratic uprisings in Africa (Benin 1990-’91, Mali and Zambia ’91) that opened history’s door for a new era of participatory representative politics around the continent. I say scarcely noted by the press, but also scarcely heeded by Western chancelleries, which judged such events to be small beer when compared to the exciting things happening in more “important” places elsewhere. Little diplomatic energy was invested in supporting this early wave of African democratization. In part, this was due to the fact that it seemed to violate tenets of conventional wisdom in political science, and hence diplomacy, which held that democracy could not take root in countries that did not have a substantial middle class.’ …continue reading

iii. China’s Real Estate Crash by Patrick Chovanec at chovanec.wordpress.com

[vpn/proxy required] ‘For years analysts have warned of a looming real estate bubble in China, but the predicted downturn, the bursting of that bubble, never occurred — that is, until now. In a telling scene two months ago, Shanghai property developers started slashing prices on their latest luxury condos by up to one-third. Crowds of owners who had recently bought apartments at full price converged on sales offices throughout the city, demanding refunds. Some angry investors went on a rampage, breaking windows and smashing showrooms.

Shanghai homeowners are hardly the only ones getting nervous. Sudden, steep price reductions are upending real estate markets across China. According to the property agency Homelink, new home prices in Beijing dropped 35 percent in November alone. And the free fall may continue for some time. Centaline, another leading property agency, estimates that developers have built up 22 months’ worth of unsold inventory in Beijing and 21 months’ worth in Shanghai. Everyone from local landowners to Chinese speculators and international investors are now worrying that these discounts indicate that “the biggest bubble of the century,” as it was called earlier this year, has just popped, with serious consequences not only for one of the world’s most promising economies — but internationally as well.’ …continue reading

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Another Nod Towards The Ubiquitous New Year Calendar, This Year From Xītáng (西塘)

December 27th, 2011

This time last year I offered a “Contemporary Chinese Nod Towards the Ubiquitous New Year Calendar“. This year, I will continue in a similar vein but this year the images will come from a recent trip to the small canal town of Xītáng, which is located not far from Hángzhōu.

We took a Christmas break to the Eastern canal towns and thoroughly enjoyed doing so. It was cold but not too cold to happily wander around, though, we were lucky we had the sun on our side. Being the winter season there weren’t too many people around, which was also good. I really did enjoy taking it easy by the waters of Xītáng, but I was also impressed with the thought that has gone into developing the city of Sūzhōu, compared that is to many other Chinese cities – Hángzhōu and Xīān included.

*With this not being a “real” calendar the images all come from Xītáng during our visit in December and are not representative of the different seasons that the months below might suggest – and as someone recently questioned.

JANUARY - A whole bunch of dedicated art students braved the cold to enjoy some fresh days and produce some fine work.

FEBRUARY - The boatman drink a lot of tea this time of year, but it was a pleasure to watch a few of them still manoeuvre their boats rhythmically down stream.

MARCH - This is a tourist town but it is still a good spot to take it easy, especially this time of year - and certainly between monday and friday - when there are few tourists around.

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Xi’an And Beyond: The Reliability Of Instability – An Early 21st Century Context

December 20th, 2011

Christmas is coming and the geese and turkey that have gotten fat are sadly feeling a little apprehensive, while I am just feeling a bit ambivalent about this yuletide time of year. But, while preparations for this festive season have been passing me by there have been a few other things to keep an eye on.

The EU has entered into a period of disintegration or rejuvenation – depending on whom you are talking to – leaving debt issues still unresolved and the whole continent on the verge of  collapse or at the point of renewal. In the US, the Occupy Wall Street movement managed to highlight that only 1% of the population owns half of all financial assets and investments. At the same time the movement’s actions shone a light on the growing number of worker collectives being established in America. In China, the townsfolk of Wukan  have taken a significant step by cooperating  to oppose the land grabs and private developments being pursued on their lands.

Wukan

The town-wide cooperation in Wukan was fuelled by the fact a member of the community mysteriously died while in custody. At the point of writing the town was free of all government officials, while there was a military blockade to stop anything going in or coming out of the town. Only time will tell how this particular situation will be resolved, but these are issues that go deeper than what form of political organization or monetary system we have. Whether we look at these land rights confrontations in China; disgust about Wall Street bonuses in the US; or concerns about runaway debts in mainland Europe, there is an underlying constant. And that is that our governments are, on the one hand, unable to guarantee what many of us have gotten used to, and on the other, unable to guarantee what many have been looking forward to getting used to, and that is economic stability and opportunity based on a system of profit and growth.

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J. Krishnamurti, FluentFlix, Bing’s CH-EN Dictionary And Xi’an’s TV Tower At Night

December 11th, 2011

I haven’t been in the website zone recently – trying as I am to get a solid foothold back into my Chinese studies and also as I am not feeling as enamoured with Xi’an as I once was – so Notes have been and may well continue to be fewer and farther between. Or they may, from time-to-time, just end up being a bit more random. Coincidently, this is one of those times. Here we have got a couple of night shots of the TV Tower in southern Xi’an, a quick link to Bing’s Chinese – English Dictionary, a cap doffed towards a new Chinese language learning Blog, named Fluent Flix, and a few words from spiritual thinker/ guru J. Krishnamurti.

I will let J. Krishnamurti offer a few simple words to help give the recent shenanigans in European and world affairs, and probably a few future happenings as well, some perspective. I came across his work back in London, read more at one of his retreat centres in Chennai, India and just recently picked up one of his books again. This is an extract from it (Freedom from the Known):

‘The question of whether or not there is a God or truth or reality, or whatever you like to call it, can never be answered by books, by priests, philosophers or saviours. Nobody and nothing can answer the question but you yourself and that is why you must know yourself. Immaturity lies only in total ignorance of self. To understand yourself is the beginning of wisdom.

And what is yourself, the individual you? I think there is a difference between the human being and the individual. The individual is a local entity, living in a particular country, belonging to a particular culture, particular society, particular religion. The human being is not a local entity. He is everywhere. If the individual merely acts in a particular corner of the vast field of life, then his action is totally unrelated to the whole…

We human beings are what we have been for millions of years – colossally greedy, envious, aggressive, jealous, anxious and despairing with occasional flashes of joy and affection. We are a strange mixture of hate, fear and gentleness; we are both violence and peace. There has been outward progress from the bullock cart to the jet plane but psychologically the individual has not changed at all, and the structure of society throughout the world has been created by individuals.

The outward social structure is the result of the inward psychological structure of our human relationships, for the individual is the result of the total experience, knowledge and conduct of man. The individual is the human who is all mankind. The whole history of man is written in ourselves.

… All outward forms of change brought about by wars, revolutions, reformations, laws and ideologies have failed completely to change the basic nature of man and therefore of society. As human beings living in this monstrously ugly world, let us ask ourselves, can this society, based on competition, brutality and fear, come to an end? Not as an intellectual conception, not as a hope, but as an actual fact, so that the mind is made fresh, new and innocent and can bring about a different world altogether? It can only happen, I think, if each one of us recognizes the central fact that we, as individuals, as human beings, in whatever part of the world we happen to live or whatever culture we happen to belong to, are totally responsible for the whole state of the world.

We are each of us responsible for every war because of the aggressiveness of our own lives, because of our nationalism, our selfishness, our gods, our prejudices, our ideals, all of which divide us.’

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NFX: Odes And All – Part I

November 21st, 2011

A week or so ago as I got bogged down in trying to protect this site from a malware attack – no easy task, I can tell you, for this computer illiterate fool – I did pay attention to the fact that a reasonable amount of content has been added here during the last three years, now over a 100 Notes. So, for my own simple pleasure, and as I have not given myself much time to write recently, I will pick a few Notes that I have liked for whatever reason and put them up in two parts – 5 Notes in each. The 5 below all come from the first year of this site. The second 5 can be found here, and were written during the last two years.

1. Ode To Xi’an  2. Some Habits Best Kept, Others Maybe Not  3. National Day Is Upon Us Here In Xi’an  4. Barack Obama, the Great Wall, a Shanghai Hall and the Importance of Tone  5. Copenhagen, Indignation and a Neo-Naturalistic Chinese Landscape

Ode to Xi’an

terracotta-warrior-notes-from-xianXi’an. Modern city, city of the ancients, city of technology, science and education, city of a city wall, city of the Buddha’s finger, city of emperors, city of conquest, city of contradiction.

An ancient city of culture without culture, a contemporary culture sublimating a culture, a city finding balance in a future culture. The bright lights of a night city pagoda’s entertainment mall, wide freeways and san lun ches (三轮车s). Warmth, hospitality, overpricing, free drinks, lao wai (老外), differences and not a few similarities. Simplicity, clarity, haziness and pollution. Sixty in a class, extra curricula classes, never enough classes, I like my classes, I like my classmates, I like my school, I like my country. My country likes me.

River people, widowed people, homeless people, newly-housed people, proud people, loud people, peaceful people, people of a time, people of a place. Xi’an’s people. Silent people, singing people, walled-in people, self-determined people, educated people, un-educated people, realistic people, hopeful people. Different people.

Free will, no will. Expansion, development, disrepair, has been repaired, still needs to be repaired. Newly built, not really built, needs to be rebuilt. Does matter, doesn’t matter. What matters? Food matters. This food, that food, what food, whose food? Our food. Have much, don’t have much, don’t want much, want what I haven’t got, got what I haven’t got. Warriors, borrowers, investors, debtors, jokers, jesters, trustees, trust hers, trust whose? Winning smiles, legs for miles, public trials and McDonalds selling freedom fries.

Working life, lived life, living life, life of the past, life of the present, I like life. Xi’an’s life. Xi’an’s people. Zhong Lou, Nan Da Jie, Xiao Zhai, Bai Hui, Gao Xin, Chang’ An Lu. Happy people, sad people, living people. Xi’an’s people. We are those people.

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Studying Chinese, The End Of Europe, China’s Leadership, And A Bowl Of Noodles

November 12th, 2011

I start studying again and European markets go into intermittent free-fall, the governments of two ancient European civilizations are forced into change, and Chinese house prices begin to slide. If we also consider the fact this site was seriously hacked last week, then a more paranoid figure than myself might start to think his Chinese language learning was cursed. This recent instability in Europe is even being described as the next phase in what, back in 2008, began to be called the modern Great Depression. This was the last time, coincidently, that I was studying Chinese with any kind of vigour and commitment.

image taken from cogmap.com

Now, I know this language can be difficult, but these are consequences that go way beyond the normal side effects of language study, such as sleepless nights and soul searching. Fortunately, I do look up from my Chinese textbooks, flashcard software and podcasts from time to time. And so am able to recognize that this present turmoil in European economic affairs, and the recent malware attack on this site, are part of a wider mêlée and nothing actually to do with my Chinese studies at all.

image taken from pakalertpress.com

It has, though, become possible to get a sense that my renewed efforts will carry me to a point in the future when I will be able to fully engage in a discussion, in Chinese, about the benefits of different political and economic systems. And, given the environment we see around us today, I could be doing so with a people who have the experience of catastrophic failures in both Communist and Capitalist systems. Hopefully however, we will still be able to sit peacefully around a nice warm fire, eating a tasty bowl of dāoxiāomiàn (刀削面), and discussing the folly of the world we knew in our youth, while simultaneously planning for the future.

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