Notes From Xi'an 西安随感
Xi'an... I Like It.

Xi'an... I Like It.

Reading and listening to so many negative, one-sided, manipulative, smug and condescending voices on things China recently (and they were just my own!), I feel like simply writing a brief note reminding myself of why I like living in Xi’an. First and foremost, I like the people that surround me on a ...

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Hanging Out In Xi'an。

Hanging Out In Xi'an。

Here is a good selection of places that are worth retreating to from time-to-time. There is a brief overview of each below, with many also having their own page with further info. and photographs. I haven't listed any bars or restaurants as I am sure they will be stumbled across by ...

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Oh Xi'an!

Oh Xi'an!

Xi’an, Xi’an, Xi'anan! I liked it when I first arrived and I like it now. We can complain about this and that, I probably do, I certainly have, but I enjoy living here. I read somewhere recently someone bemoaning the lack of running opportunities here in Xi’an, or more specifically, the negatives ...

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Ode to Xi'an

Ode to Xi'an

Xi’an. Modern City, city of the ancients, city of technology, science and education, city of a city wall, city of the Buddha’s finger, city of Emperors, city of conquest, city of contradiction. An ancient city of culture without culture, a contemporary culture sublimating a culture, a city finding balance in a ...

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-Art District Xi'an (纺织城艺术区)

-Art District Xi'an (纺织城艺术区)

ART DISTRICT (YI4 SHU4 QU1)- an Art District modeled on the previously underground though increasingly popular 798 Gallery/Workshop Area in Beijing. It is known here in Xi'an as the 'Textile City Art Area' and it is located in the East of the city, very near to the Ban Po Ancient Village. ...

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Needles, Hurdles and Temples

Needles, Hurdles and Temples

The week that was, began when I was woken by an incoming text message to my girlfriends phone, while she still lay sleeping. The message from a friend of hers relayed the news that we should be careful of fellow bus passengers armed with needles, needles that carry a deadly ...

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-Jennifer's Cafe (婕妮花咖啡馆)

-Jennifer's Cafe (婕妮花咖啡馆)

JENNIFER’S CAFE (Jie2 Ni2 Hua1 Ka1 Fei1 Guan3- 婕妮花咖啡馆)- just along from the south gate of the North Western University, on You3 Yi4 Xi Lu (友谊西路),  near the northern end of Gao1 Xin1 Lu (高新路). Quiet with a laid back atmosphere and a bit of an ethnic feel- Wireless. (Address: 高新区友谊西路127号-西工大南门口西面).

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-Sculpting in Time Cafes (雕刻时光)

-Sculpting in Time Cafes (雕刻时光)

SCULPTING IN TIME CAFE (SIT Cafe)- 雕刻时光- Diao1 Ke4 Shi2 Guang1- a very chilled cafe on Shi1 Da4 Lu, no.41, opposite Xi’an Foreign Languages University. Just walk down Shi Da Lu on the right hand side and you will see a circular green sign with a cat on it, it is ...

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Teaching In Xi'an

Teaching In Xi'an

It is about time I outlined what can be expected from a teacher’s life in Xi’an. The first point to note and to emphasize is that it offers the chance of a very good life. It is easy for a native English speaker to not only find work here but ...

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-Book Shop Tea Lounge (万邦书城茶馆)

-Book Shop Tea Lounge (万邦书城茶馆)

BOOK SHOP TEA LOUNGE (WAN4 BANG1 SHU1 CHENG2- Wan4 Bang1 Book City)- a good spot, a peaceful and comfortable tea house, mixing style with tradition on the second floor of the bookshop on Xiao3 Zhai4 Dong1 Lu4, half way between Shaanxi National History Museum and Chang2'An1 Lu4. Modern red sofas mixed with ...

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Some Habits Best Kept, Others Maybe Not

Some Habits Best Kept, Others Maybe Not

A couple of things that stood out on the Chinese culture front last week. The first, was listening to a Chinese colleague outline her lunchtime ritual. She noted how she goes from school to her car across the road, which she pays to park, then drives straight down the street ...

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-Small Goose Pagoda (小雁塔)

-Small Goose Pagoda (小雁塔)

SMALL WILD GOOSE PAGODA- 小雁塔- XIAO3 YAN4 TA3- this is a great place to hang out. The ancient pagoda is set in a very well landscaped park area, which has a feeling of peace, nature and history- not a combination that often found in Xi’an. I was, for a while, put off ...

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Your Average Xi'an Morning

Your Average Xi'an Morning

I woke slowly and with sleep still in my eyes peered out through our new 'dust-net'. I saw that an inch-thick layer of lunar-like dust had again settled and completely covered the bedroom. I carefully rose from the bed, shaking a thin layer of dust from my hair, that troublingly ...

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-Art School Cafe (美术学院茶馆)

-Art School Cafe (美术学院茶馆)

Art School Cafe- sit outside under the trees, surrounded by Artists and a busy road junction! Don't be put off this is a good spot. It lies directly West of Da Yan Ta (Big Goose Pagoda), start off on Yanta Xi Lu (Goose Pagoda West Road), head West and keep going, ...

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Confucius Notations and the Slow Learning of Chinese

Confucius Notations and the Slow Learning of Chinese

This extract I first discovered some time ago but rediscovered recently, it is taken from the Confucius text Centrality and Commonality: An Essay on Chung- Yung (the Doctrine of the Mean) and has served me as a grounding, though motivating force in my fluctuating pursuit of mastering, to some degree ...

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-Amy's Cafe (艾米咖啡馆)

-Amy's Cafe (艾米咖啡馆)

AMY'S CAFE (艾米咖啡馆- Ai4 Mi3 Ka1 Fei1 Guan3)- a peaceful and cosy little place, with a bit of a French feel, partly due to its boutique nature and partly to do with the hand painted artwork on the walls. It is an independent coffee shop, which for Xi’an is definitely a ...

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What is Xi'an Like? Part I

What is Xi'an Like? Part I

I have written a few notes here now but have not yet really given an account of what Xi’an is like, so I will do that now. This note will come generally from the perspective of a foreign teacher here, though with an eye on the whole. Xi’an is a ...

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-Chan Ba Ecological District (浐灞生态区)

-Chan Ba Ecological District (浐灞生态区)

CHAN BA ECOLOGICAL DISTRICT (浐灞生态区)- Chan3 Ba4 Sheng1 Tai4 Qu1)-  this is part of a huge water city development on the banks of the river Ba, in the East of Xi'an. It is certainly a work in progress but it does already offer a wetland retreat from the busy down town area ...

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What is Xi'an Like? Part II

What is Xi'an Like? Part II

The city centre is surrounded by an ancient city wall with the main routes out of the city all passing through one of a variety of gates, the largest being simply the North, East, South and West gates. I live in the south, about a 20-minute taxi ride or ...

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-C'est La Vie Bakery/Cafe (赛拉维法国烘焙店)

-C'est La Vie Bakery/Cafe (赛拉维法国烘焙店)

C'EST LA VIE BAKERY/CAFE- this is a bakery/cafe that sells a selection of freshly made European breads and pastries, for Xi'an that is a great new thing. This bakery certainly has a French flavor but actually has had its staff trained by an Austrian baker, flown in for the task. Good ...

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Chinese New Year (Its On Its Way)

February 5th, 2010 Comments Off

With on-line / pre-paid/ high environmental cost airline tickets tucked away in my gmail database somewhere, this year’s experience of Chinese New Year may well be somewhat different to last year’s. Although, bus stations/ train stations and a trip to the in-laws can only actually be forestalled and not avoided completely; Beijing for New Year- deep Southern Shaanxi a week later.

Here are a few extracts from last year’s Notes, just to remind me what Chinese New Year is all about and to get me in the spirit of it all. Plus this article about the ‘real-name train ticket system’ that is being piloted this year.

Chinese New Year at Xi’an’s Southern Bus Station I.

Chinese New Year is fast approaching and people in their masses are heading home. Yesterday I wandered down to the bus station to buy a ticket for my girlfriend who is also returning home for Spring Festival, a few days before I join her. No problem I had thought, a bit of a wait then I would arrive back at the flat a knight in shining armour, clutching a much sought after ticket when she returned from work. However… read on

Chinese New Year at Xi’an’s Southern Bus Station II.

Tomorrow is another day but I was up again and heading off to the bus station just as I had done two days earlier. This time as I arrived at the station I was relieved to see the line pleasingly manageable, probably about where I had entered it the first time just this time I was to do so legitimately and with over an hour before the station doors were to be opened. read on

New Year In China

New Year in China isn’t just what you celebrate but where you celebrate and what it tells us about what we already know but maybe don’t always quite see, that China is a country of migrants. Though, it is not as it is in many western countries a migration of national peoples. Here it is a migration from the country to the city, from small town to large, most often within the same province, although ofcourse the general mass movement in recent decades East and South has been huge. read on

Chinese New Year Comes (And Is Still Going)

Chinese New Year (Guo Nian) seemed to have come and gone but on returning to Xi’an it is obvious it is still in the process of going, pleasantly. Back in the village, my girlfriend is actually from a small village outside town, New Year was spent trying desperately not to eat a feast of fine proportions at every home in the neighbourhood. However, when the neighbourhood consists of fields and homesteads drifting off into the far distance and when everyone seems to be a second father, an uncle, a sister, an elder brother or an aunty this can prove quite difficult. read on

Chinese New Year- If It Is Going To Go, It Might As Well Go Like That

Well, if the curtain has to be brought down on these celebrations then you might as well go down fighting for them. That is how it seems the Chinese greet the Lantern Festival, which falls on the 15th day of the Lunar New Year and marks the end of these weeks of travel, celebration and the good old-fashioned eating of too much food. Although, when they went, they went down with a smile on their faces. read on

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China News Links- w/e 7th February 2010

State-Owned Enterprises in China: How Big are They?- from blogs.worldbank.org: ‘It seems that although Chinese SOEs play a major role in the Chinese economy, they continue to remain mysterious to most outsiders. ‘

Wow, China IS Serious About Clean Energy!- from CleanTechnica.com: ‘China’s upcoming Big Clean Energy plans are Huge and are likely to dwarf what are currently the largest wind power and solar power projects in the world.’

How Much Internet Freedom do Chinese Citizens have?- from The China Media Project: ‘I try to explain how China does not lend itself to simple labels like “free” or “unfree.” As we broach this now exceptionally sticky question of Internet freedom in China, I encourage readers to step back and take the same vantage point.’

Six Takes on Martin Jacques’ ‘When China Rules The World- from The China Beat: ‘My goal… is to direct the attention of interested readers to six recent essays by other people that engaged with the thesis of ‘When China Rules the World’.’

Can We Learn From China?- from The Huffington Post: ‘By one estimate, China has been at the top of the global economy for 18 out of the last 20 centuries. That’s an impressive track record, whatever you might think of imperialism, communism, and all the other systems that have prevailed in that vast country over the centuries.’

Lunar Eclipse: US Retreat Leaves China Leading Way in Race to Return to Moon- from The Guardian: ‘The Chinese space agency could land its first astronauts on the moon within a decade…India found water on the surface with its first lunar mission last year… Japan, too, has sent a satellite to the moon… the beginning of a new age of lunar exploration.’

The 3-2 Tone Swap Error- from Sinosplice: ‘This post identifies a type of tonal production error which many students of Mandarin Chinese make, not only in the beginner and elementary stages, but often well into the intermediate stage… I’m dubbing the error the “3-2 Tone Swap”.’

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The Yellow River Soup Kitchen I.

February 1st, 2010 Comments Off

These pictures represent a small glimpse into the workings, projects and characters of The Yellow River Soup Kitchen. Below this gallery are a couple of brief extracts and opportunities to continue reading, first, the founder’s enlightening thoughts on his and the projects motivations and growth, and second, some thoughtful observations from a visitor’s chance encounter. The Yellow River Soup Kitchen was established here in Xi’an in December 2005, it was the first Soup Kitchen in China.

*Each picture can be clicked through individually or a slideshow can be created by pressing the PicLens tab below. (The 3D link just goes to the designer’s site.)

A Couple of Inspirational Notes from Tony, the founder of the Yellow River Soup Kitchen:

i. A Note From The Founder

“This project or period of my life has dominated my every waking and sleeping minute for the past 3 years but in reality goes back 6 years and beyond… The catalyst, which sparked a change, waited until 2002 to break through into my consciousness; it was during a trip to Gaia House on my first ever Buddhist retreat. At the time I was working 16 hours a day running two businesses, as I had been for the previous 12 years, and I was loving every minute of the madness… I arrived at Gaia House, in typical fashion, at 100 miles/hr in a shiny car, suited and booted. The cushion, that I was to be crouced upon, must have had a knowing smile as it watched me unwittingly approach. By the time I left Gaia House four days later the decision had been made to sell everything that I owned and leave the UK, to where was not important, but what I fully realized was it meant me not returning…” read on

 

ii. The Birth of The Soup Kitchen 

The highest realms of thought are impossible to reach without first attaining an understanding of compassion”
Socrates

“We are asked many times – “Why?” Not an easy one to answer. I can only give you my ‘why’ as best I understand it, and cannot speak for all the many wonderful volunteers who have offered their time and energy in various forms. Teaching English in remote villages in sweltering classrooms to those that some how find the time week after week to serve food to the homeless in all weathers; during the height of the summer to the depths of the winter in temperatures ranging from +45c to -11c. They will all have their own reasons and I am sure they would be wide and varied.
 
This project began for me with an old woman in Xi’an, on December 15th 2005. However, in reality maybe my reasons ‘why’ go back much farther, maybe as far back as more than 10 years ago to an orphanage in Romania. I was on my second trip to Romania delivering medical equipment and supplies to hospitals and orphanages for a charity I and four friends had set up. Seeing the children and observing the Mother Teresa nuns’ selfless acts and their amazing strength despite ridiculous odds was humbling and inspiring. So powerful was the experience that I am still unable to reflect back on that time without that same warm tingling feeling invading me and a lump lodging itself firmly in my throat.
 
That day in 1996 I made a silent promise that I would one day give more of myself to these people, both the nuns and the children, and others like them. Having no idea at the time what may lie ahead…” read on

 

Claire Hall offers a few insights after a chance encounter with the project back in 2008:

“Around the world the term ‘Soup Kitchen’ is not an alien concept, these places are necessary life lines to those who find themselves for what ever reason on the streets, but here in China they have never thought about doing this for their poor. Tony had introduced something so foreign to China that many Chinese questioned its authenticity and his motives. Why would one man from England come all this way to personally feed China’s homeless using his own cash?” read more

Times, Address and Map

The Soup Kitchen runs every Monday, Wednesday and Friday evening, from just before 7.00 pm. It can be found at the Catholic Church on wu xing jie (五星街) tian zhu jiao tang (天主教堂)17号:

These pictures were taken by a number of different volunteers, one contributor was Gareth Blackett, this is a link to his site where he has other great photographs from around Xi’an.

Updates from the 4th Anniversary Newsletter

December 2009:

 

Tony offers a summary of some of the Soup Kitchens past work- giving a little insight into what has been keeping them busy these past 4 years:        

* The Yellow River Soup Kitchen has served in excess of 50,000 to date and currently serves around 2000 meals per month.
* Through our outreach programme’s to poor mountain villages we have delivered aid to over 15,000 people
* We help around 20 homeless people per year find employment.
* In 2006 we ran a summer school and taught 180 school children.
* Oct/Nov ’09 we renovated a village school and then organised the first of an annual sports day for up to 100 village children.
* Weekly offer first aid at the Soup Kitchen and pay for or arrange treatment whenever possible.
* To date we have had a total of over 1300 volunteers come to work with us, purely by word of mouth.
* This year we have assisted in the starting of Soup Kitchens in 3 other cities in China.
* Regularly work with other organizations that find us, from student groups both in China and from the West, international and local NGO’s and large corporations, giving many people the opportunity to try our brand of volunteer work.
* We have helped rehabilitate several street children, some to find work, some to attend school and regularly help them to return to their families.
* During the time of the earthquakes in Sichuan province in May 2008, we mobilized 29 volunteers and 7000 items delivering aid to around 2000 people in Lue Yang. We continue to sponsor 39 school children to attend school in the region.
To watch a short 4 minute video of a summary of our projects in 2009 click here

   

Street Distribution of Winter Quilts, Overcoats & Long Johns Nov & Dec ‘09

Each winter we take to the streets of Xi’an and distribute new quilts, overcoats and long johns to the homeless as they sleep. Finding them on the streets at night is a difficult and time consuming way to distribute - each night teams were out until 1-2 am- but we can learn so much in the process; where the homeless sleep, what conditions they live in, what problems they may be facing that we weren’t aware of, if there are any new people that we are currently not serving at our Soup Kitchen and even how many people that we do serve are genuinely homeless and are living on the streets. We have found that the number of  people we serve who are genuinely on the streets is in excess of 90%. This is a great experience for all of our volunteers to have because there is still a lot of doubt and cynicism from the general population that the homeless are actually wealthy people who don’t need help.

Due to the natural spreading of our actions we have also been able to assist groups in 3 other major cities in China start Soup Kitchens of their own, the latest of which is a University in Zhuhai, southern China. In addition to our “day job” there has been the bizarre and the surreal, perhaps due to us being considered the first Soup Kitchen in China, the nature of our work or the philosophy we have adopted but we seem to have created a fair bit of interest in our activities, both within China and from abroad. Resulting in the last year and a half two more documentaries being made about our organisation, an interview with the Harvard Business Review, work with the Coca Cola China/Swire Group as part of their Corporate Social Responsibility Program and more recently an invitation to be a spotlight speaker for The Windsor Leadership Trust in Hong Kong.

These are just a few examples and all this as a result of just serving soup and filled buns (Baozi) to the homeless here in Xi’an. It still seems strange how firstly these organisations find us yet more so “why us?”. 2010 already looks like it will be no less dull as we are already in the process of planning some new exciting projects for next year, working in partnership with a large international corporation, which if our plans are finalised will enable us to train and provide the homeless with skills and help create employment for them rather than just providing them with food.

The Yellow Heaven Soup Kitchen- Want To Help Page

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China News Links- w/e January 31st 2010

The Rural Life and Times of China’s Aging Population, Part I- From The Asia Health Care Blog: ‘This series of articles will address the issues that effect the ‘99′ segment of the rural population; the elderly. It will be a holistic look at the myriad of problems the elderly face in rural areas and in conclusion will provide ideas which could alleviate the pressure that China is bound to face in the future.’

China Outlines Plans to Outlaw Forced Evictions- From the BBC.co.uk Asia-Pacific News: ‘The Chinese government has outlined major changes to the way in which land can be seized for redevelopment. Under the draft proposals, using violence and coercion to make people move would be banned and owners would be able to appeal against evictions.’

Chinese Leader Offers a Glimpse of the Future- From The New York Times: ‘China gave the world a glimpse of the next generation of Chinese leaders on Thursday when Li Keqiang, widely expected to be the next prime minister, vowed that his country would act swiftly to shift from an over-reliance on exports toward greater domestic consumption.’

Tears of Mermaids: Pearls Straight from the Farm- From Deep Glamour.net: ‘Stephen G. Bloom provides a behind-the-scenes tour of the worldwide pearl industry. This is the second of four installments on the Chinese freshwater pearl farms that are transforming the world of pearls.’

The Long March (to world class Universities)- From The Times Higher Education.co.uk: ‘China is hungry for Western-style universities, not least to fuel its economy. Phil Baty reports on the efforts to uproot corruption and bureaucracy and build a dynamic and vibrant world-class system.’

Foreign Languages Fade in Class — Except Chinese- Again from The New York Times: ‘Thousands of public schools stopped teaching foreign languages in the last decade…But another contrary trend has educators and policy makers abuzz: a rush by schools in all parts of America to offer instruction in Chinese.’

Africa: Chinese Investment has Put Africans in the Driving Seat- From The FT: ‘China’s burgeoning interest in Africa has acted as a multiplier. Asian demand for African commodities improves trade terms. This in turn encourages other investors to look at Africa with different eyes, correcting what bankers describe as the ”undervaluation of African assets”.’

Web Censorship in China? Not a Problem, says Bill Gates- From The Guardian.co.uk: ‘ ”Chinese efforts to censor the internet have been very limited,” he said. “It’s easy to go around it, so I think keeping the internet thriving there is very important.”‘

Race Is on to Develop Green, Clean TechnologyFrom The NYT:’ It is shaping up to be the Great Game of the 21st century… the race to develop greener, cleaner technology, which is emerging as one of the critical factors in reshaping the world economy as emerging powers snap at the heels of battered Western economies.’

Chengdu to Pilot Free Bike-Rental Program- From Go Chengdoo: ‘Announcements were made recently that Chengdu will pilot a free, short-term bicycle-rental program in its southern new area.’

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Xi’an… I Like It.

January 11th, 2010 Comments Off

Reading and listening to so many negative, one-sided, manipulative, smug and condescending voices on things China recently (and they were just my own!), I feel like simply writing a brief note reminding myself of why I like living in Xi’an.

Local People

First and foremost, I like the people that surround me on a day-to-day basis, the Xi’anese.  They are a matter-of-fact bunch, a straightforward lot, and a generally supportive and friendly collection of people. I generalise on the basis of the impressions that have been planted within me these last three years. I like Xi’an, I like the people and I like living here. We of course must take into account the fact I am a Laowai (老外) and thus treated, generally, with a slightly more friendly and helpful hand than some members of the Chinese community might experience. Though, this may also depend on the extent of each individual Laowai’s forbearance in the face of things China and Chinese.

Local People

Local People

 

That said, the warmth I receive and feel is not solely or even mostly based upon my own interactions, but on those friendly exchanges between locals and neighbours that surround me; the often straight-forward resolution of a dispute without recourse to violence: a smile when a near accident occurs: the quick banter between work mates and the open and caring offering of advice or support between friends: how uncles and aunts are so easily embodied in strangers: youthful style expressed without too-much self-consciousness: street cleaners working with an often hard-to-believe diligence and how easily a broad smile crosses the seemingly most hardened and mistrusting of faces. This place, for me, isn’t reminiscent of the increasingly insular and anti-social societies we have begun to talk so much of at home, neither is it easily explained away as distinct from the Chinese Communist Party or, for that matter, the political history of China. For good and bad it is what it is in its entirety.

Local People

Local People

 

Xi’an is also evolving. I have been here for more than three years and things have changed- I won’t say moved forward as that too easily gives an impression of development and ‘it’ being an a priori ‘good’; it is not that straightforward, however, more and more Chinese and foreign companies are establishing headquarters here, car use has escalated to such an extent that I actually have to sometimes wait before crossing the road and even, on occasion, sit on my bike at one of these new large road junctions staring up in bewilderment at a digitally displayed time counter, for a whole 90 seconds!

There are more venues for leisure than there were upon my arrival. Bars and cafes have been added; mostly chains from abroad but some independent places are now beginning to spring up. The same applies to the choice of western food, though the selection of Chinese food is as comprehensive as ever. Xi’an has its own renowned dishes (yang2 rou4 pao4 mo2- 羊肉泡馍, hu2 lu tou2-葫芦头 and rou4 jia2 mo2 肉夹馍 or Roger Moore to the newly initiated ) but being roughly in the centre between North and South, it also has a good selection of regional foods and a genuine choice between rice or noodles!

Old areas have been renovated and re-landscaped, while new areas have been built. In fact, whole districts have emerged in the time I have been here, most noticeably Qu Jiang and the Chang’an District that incorporates the new University campuses. There are more parks, more cinemas, now at least two or three lakes, there is a concert hall and theatre, art galleries are beginning to emerge, book shops are finally starting to sell more and more English titles, even a number of book groups and book exchanges have been created ( see the Village Cafe notice board for the former and Xianease.com for the latter), and there are a few charitable organisations beginning to offer opportunities for volunteering. There are also now at least three Xi’an city guides (China Grooves, New Dynasty and Xianese.com) that can help the fresh off the boat and the old hands alike get themselves about; find work, borrow a book, drink a pint, have a tooth extracted, dance into the early hours and generally take advantage of this great city, over and above the everyday street life of it all.

Local People

Local People

 

Educational facilities in schools have improved and Xi’an is increasingly being seen as a centre of education, science and technology. The impressive Chan Ba river district continues its development, with the Xi’an World Horticultural Expo on its way in 2011. Trees are being planted on a daily basis, Da Yan Ta and Xiao Yan Ta still stand in all their splendour, while traditional musicians are still found scattered around these ancient monuments and Xi’an’s green and leafy garden retreats. Also, for all those whose Chinese is developing nicely, there is always the chance of dropping into Bei1 Lin2 (碑林) to check on one’s progress! If that isn’t enough the 1200- odd km stretch of the Qin Ling Mountains are just a couple of kilometres outside of town. And as the Xianese.com boys were telling me recently, there is no better way to discover them than by motorbike. That may well be something for me in 2010, as may be the realisation that, with a good Shaanxi woman by my side and all the above, I am settled and settling here in Xi’an. However, who knows? I could be living in an English seaside town this time next year and singing its praises, but, for now, I doubt it.

Happy Days and it’s still only Winter…

… In addition, a couple of related Notes written earlier last year: Ode to Xi’an - What is Xi’an Like? Part I.-  What is Xi’an Like? Part II

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 China News Links- w/e January 1oth

$123,000,000,000,000- China’s Estimated Economy by the Year 2040- by Robert Fogel in Foreign Policy- ‘China’s share of global GDP — 40 percent — will dwarf that of the United States (14 percent) and the European Union (5 percent) 30 years from now.’

Taiwan Opposition Scores Win- in the Singapore Straits Times- ‘The Democratic Progressive Party (DPP), which favours independence from China, beat the ruling Kuomintang (KMT) party in Taoyuan, Taichung and Taitung, said the Central Election Commission.’

China, Coal and Energy. Part I- from China Comment- statistics, context, facts and realities

Why Isaac Newton Was Not A Chinese?- from Reflections in a Chinese Eye

Rivals and Partners- Stanley Weiss in The New York Times- the China- India Relationship

Who’s Sleeping Now?- Thomas Friedman in The New York Times- CH Tung: “China was asleep during the Industrial Revolution. She was just waking during the Information Technology Revolution. She intends to participate fully in the Green Revolution.”

My Enemies, My Teachers- By Liao Yiwu in The Paris Review, from 2007 but was on the Hao Hao Report this week- a life of homelessness, as a political prisoner and a celebrated author, where the lines between each are blurred.

100 Months and Counting-  the 100 Months.org Save the World’s Environment Campaign- via The Guardian- the clock is ticking.

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The Hao Hao Report and a Sunny New Year in Xi’an

January 3rd, 2010 Comments Off

While bringing in the New Year I added a new hobby to my days. A pastime which has helped me to engage a little more with matters on the Chinese news front, as I have failed to do that regularly with my own notes here. I passed through into 2010 as a Hao Hao Reporter! Now, although the title is more grandiose than the reality, which is simply volunteering to add media stories one finds interesting on the internet to the Hao Hao Report website, it has been a good way to keep a little more on-top of what is going on in relation to China news, across the media spectrum. It also seems to have a good community of people contributing to it, though disagreements amongst members do seem on occasion to occur! 

hhr-jssThe Hao Hao Report is an excellent site, kicked off in 2006 by Ryan, of  ‘The Lost Laowai, ’The Humanaught’ and ‘Dao by Design’, and which with the help of its members, attempts to aggregate all online media articles that have a central reference to China; whether musings from mainstream media intellectuals or insights from personal blog posts- that is, if they are considered good enough. If a member puts forward a story, it quickly becomes obvious if it is considered good or not, as the community votes somebody’s story up or down depending on their own evaluation. Positively, you automatically receive a vote for the story you put forward upon submission. If a story receives 5 votes it moves through to the so-called ‘Popular Page’, which doubles as the site’s homepage; thus those stories considered more interesting hang around longer for people to read. The stories and topics I have come across these last few days have in equal measure been amusing, inspiring, interesting and moving.

No story was more moving and saddening than the story about the 14 year old student who was caught and punished for climbing over the school wall to go and buy some snacks. He was told, by the teacher on duty, to stand outside in the cold. The teacher subsequently went out for the evening and forgot about his student. The boy was discovered the next day- having frozen to death. I must say that for me personally, the story of Akmal Shaikh and his 4kg of heroin, questionable mental state and subsequent execution, the first national of an EU country to be executed in China for 50 years, paled into the background compared to this tragic loss of a single helpless life. It is so sad on a number of levels, outlined in the story linked to above, but two stand out for me.

from bbs.tiexue.net

from bbs.tiexue.net

 

The first was simply the needless loss of life and the tragic ease with which a young person’s life can just disappear into nothing. And second, that the boy’s seeming acquiescence to authority overrode his basic human instinct for survival. We can all talk about our perceptions and generalizations of /about the Chinese mind set; the (没有为什么-mei you weishenme) “no why” mentality; discussions of greater length have gone on elsewhere. However, for now, I will just leave it by saying how very sad a story this is. 

Another issue or topic that stood out through all the postings of stories over the New Year period was a recognition of China having, during the last decade, fully entered the domain of global governance. Whether on issues of climate change, currency evaluation, internet censorship, trade in rare earth metals or in its guise as the central force within the ASEAN-6, China is most certainly at the table of international affairs and it is sitting there with its own agenda and methods of governing.  This was summed up more generally by Niall Ferguson when he noted: ‘I think maybe it was only then [last month at Carnegie Hall] that I really got the point about this decade, just as it was drawing to a close: that we are living through the end of 500 years of western ascendancy.’ For my own sense of reference, I will, with regard to this topic, let some of the stories that brought in the New Year on the Hao Hao Report speak for themselves. 

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China News Links-w/e January 03rd

As Threats Multiply and Power Fragments, the Coming Decade Cries Out for Realistic Idealism- Timothy Garton Ash in The Guardian: ‘To build… strategic coalitions of the willing and able, coalitions that will vary from issue to issue, is the daunting task of realistic idealism in the 2010s.’

President Obama, Push Back on China- Wei Jing Sheng in The New York Times: ‘If the United States doesn’t push back, the hard-liners will push on, with negative consequences across the whole spectrum of issues, from trade and currency valuations to global security and climate change.’

The World in 2010: China Continues Its Unstoppable Economic Charge- Alistair Dawber in The Independent

Q and A: Ambassador John Huntsman (US Envoy to China)- Evan Osnos- Letter From China in The New Yorker

The Lonely Rising Power- Yi Yi Lu in The Wall Street Journal: ‘Copenhagen suggests that western countries will increasingly… promot[e] a new narrative that portrays China as the lonely rising power whose interest is at odds with that of everybody else.’

China Resets Terms of Engagement in Central Asia- M K Bhadrakumar in The Asia Times

Concern as China Clamps Down on Rare Earth Exports- Cahal Milmo in The Independent: ’Britain and other Western countries risk running out of supplies of certain highly sought-after rare metals that are vital to a host of green technologies…China['s]…mines account for 97 per cent of global supplies.’

Why Denouncing China is Hypocritical- Michael White in The Guardian

Why Did No Imams Plead for Akmal Shaikh’s Life to be Spared?- Robert Fisk in The Independent

ps. It is 2010 and it is sunny in Xi’an- All is Well.

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Copenhagen, Indignation and a Neo-Naturalistic Chinese Landscape

December 26th, 2009 Comments Off

nature_reserve

from Smart Code.com

Two days ago in Xi’an, while workmen were planting pine trees into the central reservation of the new upgraded Chang’an Road, I could hardly make out the tall television tower a short distance behind them for the polluted air that surrounded it. However, while today the workmen were still planting trees, the TV tower, itself recently refurbished, was sparkling white and clear in a beautiful blue sky.  And there was I, led to believe that those Copenhagen talks were “at best flawed, at worst chaotic” or even worse aclimate crime scene”. Not so, by the looks of the results on the ground here in happy, naturalistic China.

Now, maybe there is no call for the use of such a jocular tone towards what is obviously a very serious issue. An issue with an agenda that, in recent weeks, has drawn much brow beating and finger pointing from members of government and civil society alike. However, I have also attempted to consider these issues a little from the perspective of having lived in China for a few years.

from China Hush.com

from China Hush.com

The first thing to note, that pollution in China, for the Chinese, is a serious issue. (Documentary Photography: Pollution in China). Second, the recognition, that the processes adopted and the new relationships involved in the decisions taken at an inter-state level are of fundamental importance going deeper into the 21st century. Third, it would be better for all concerned in such inter-state processes, such as those that took place in Copenhagen, if the participants were able to recognise their own personal/cultural perspectives, attitudes and circumstances, and the context that defines them and that the same situation with different sets of conditions exist for others. Finally, it is good to see so many trees regularly being planted around this sprawling urban centre of Western China!

Pollution in China for the Chinese

So, the first thing to note is that although the scale of China’s carbon emissions is a world problem, it is still first and foremost a Chinese problem, for the Chinese people. It is due to centuries of development and historical levels of emissions across the globe, that China’s present position has been placed into such sharp relief.  There are at least a couple of strands to this. The first is that in taking into account China’s historical sense of isolationism and self-determination, any debate and dialogue is perhaps best understood within the context of responsibility, for and by the Chinese people. This might not be liked by some but is maybe a necessary perspective to recognise. This may explain why such an emphasis is placed by Chinese negotiators on “domestic statistical, monitoring and evaluation”, and is not in fact a de facto form of dis-responsibility.

from chinahush.com

from China Hush.com

Secondly, that the security of China’s Developing Economy, especially in this unclear and unstable economic time, will be seen to be of great short-medium term importance and not something to be guided by a global summit agenda, especially one hammered out through sleeves-rolled up, back slapping, back room agreements. Wen Jia Bao expressed this tricky dichotomy between Economic Development and Environmental Salvation, when he noted that: “China is now at an important stage of accelerated industrialisation and urbanization, and, given the predominant role of coal in our energy mix, we are confronted with a special difficulty in emissions reduction…we have set the new target of cutting carbon dioxide emissions per unit of GDP by 40-45 percent by 2020 from the 2005 level.”

It must be noted that the jump we are expecting these developing nations to take, is not a small step, as alluded to, again by Wen Jia Bao: “To reduce carbon dioxide emissions on such a large scale and over such an extended period of time will require tremendous efforts on our part.” It is also not a process that we had to face in our own development, or certainly not one we had the foresight to recognise or, as is more likely, were willing to address. It is easy to take the moral high ground, on the basis of scientific data and impending planetary/ humanitarian doom; it is another to actually be those in power who have to make those decisions. It might seem clear to some but they carry different cultural, social and political baggage. Like it or not, disappointment and indignation will not get you very far, though of course natural reactions. 

Global Groupings and the Maintenance of State Sovereignty

If the United Nations wasn’t discredited enough during the shenanigans leading to the conflict in Iraq, then Copenhagen may shine a brighter light upon how we are going to be able to decide globally significant issues between existing sovereign states. Especially states like China, that have such a strong sense of national identity and autonomy. We also need to consider what would be defined as “legally binding” in this context. Remember that Kyoto has been held up in recent days as a legally binding Climate Agreement but that it was comprehensively written off at the time by environmentalists as not going far enough and was not even signed by the US. Legally binding it might have been but it doesn’t seem to have carried much weight.

Going forward, there of course needs to be what existed in Copenhagen: the main players getting around the table or teleconferencing suites and discussing these issues further. Politicians can talk of being held to ransom and not letting agreements be dominated by minority members, but if those members are the US or the Chinese then there is not a lot that can be done: they need to be onside and that needs to be remembered when the bitter lessons, drawn from the recognition of impotence, are learnt. Like it or not, vis-à-vis Climate Change the US has never really come on board; we may just find, in the time we still have, that the Chinese are more willing.

Contextualisation, Indignation and Tree Planting

from chinahush.com

from chinahush.com

Perhaps, only by understanding the Chinese context and attitude and giving space and room for understanding and dialogue, will the greatest polluter the planet may well ever know, continue to sit at the table. Though I suggest there is a greater sense of responsibility there than Copenhagen suggests. This is not simply a doffed cap approach to diplomacy but a recognition of reality. It seems to me that by allowing ourselves to issue ‘Demands’ and letting our own indignation get the better of us, we do nothing but antagonise those we are appealing to. Life isn’t what we expect or even what we desire and very rarely is it or should it be made up of demands made on others, even if those demands are made from our own earnest sense of responsibility. Life, or one that takes a peaceful, harmonious path, tends to be made from holding a light to ourselves, as well as to others.

Finally, I am jolly happy to regularly see new parks appearing, tree lined avenues created and sometimes even prime real estate land becoming wooded city centre oases. Now, by no means is China about to be defined as a neo-naturalistic landscape but if we can but see the light or the potential for photosynthesising light at least, in the polluted darkness that often shrouds the street scapes of down-town Chinese cities, we can see the light elsewhere and we can move forward.

Belief And What’s Left

Maybe time isn’t on our planet’s side but indignation, insults and socio-cultural subjectivity aren’t going to keep the Chinese at the table, and they need to be there. If the European Union nations and the US had shown more of the selflessness that, in reality, is now being expected to some degree from the Chinese, then we wouldn’t be here worrying so much. And please, don’t kid yourselves that a turn to democracy in China would make these issues and decisions any easier, at least in the short-term, I don’t believe it would. This is not a case against reform just a note that, it would one, not necessarily be the all seeing and doing saviour that one might like it to be, and two, such political reform here, in my opinion, is a very long way off, maybe even something for another world or life- time. If I have become anything since living in China, it is a realist, though with a still hard to extinguish belief in humanity, and from my own anecdotal and generalising experience, a belief in the Chinese people, at least as much as I have in humanity generally. As many Evangelical- Missionary Christians here might tell you, belief is all we have, but as I might add, the rest is up to us. The Chinese, I might proffer, recognise that more than most.

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07/12/09 Xi’an: Dedicated to the Passing of James. D. Lloyd

December 7th, 2009 Comments Off

James 1We are gathered here today to mark the passing of James. D. Lloyd (aka. Jimmy-Lad or 罗玄德) into the afterlife. This is not though the afterlife that some of you maybe thinking of. No, this is not a pathway towards the showering light of heaven but a passing, from the light to the dark, from the glowing streets of Xi’an to the darkest depths of Bolton, England. This is the after-Xi’an-life. After four years in this little planetary oasis of peace and tranquillity, James and his ever present companion 朱宇 (aka. Flora or Big F), have decided to head towards the fresh green pastures of northern England.

James will be missed by all those who have walked Side-by-Side with him over these last few years. There were those students at Aston English School who were delighted to find playground capers had made their way into the classroom. As well as those who initially had faces of sadness, who only wanted to learn vocabulary and grammar the way they knew best, by having it beaten and drilled remorselessly into them, but who were later surprised to realise they were actually learning English and that it was exciting and fun doing so. Even if some did find themselves unwittingly saddled with the names of Bolton FC players, none more afflicted than a 10 year old boy I discovered one day with the name Jussi Jaaskelainen, after the great Bolton shot stopper.

James 2There were all those on the streets of Xi’an who marveled at the sheer height and stature of this skinny Laowei Lad from England. There were also those touched, intrigued, confused, surprised and moved by the sight of James, accompanying Tony and many other volunteers at the Yellow River Soup Kitchen over the years, giving out food to those suffering on the unforgiving streets of Xi’an. James has been working alongside Tony since the Soup Kitchen’s inception and was only two weeks ago putting his height to good use, as a bunch of volunteers renovated a small school in Lan Tian. They transformed the school with the painting of walls and furniture, the adding of windows and coal heaters, and the creating of a library with the help of the Library Project.

There have also been the many Xi’anese locals and foreigners who have suffered at the competitive hands and legs of ‘The Jimmy Lad’, on the badminton and tennis courts, table tennis and pool tables, football pitches, running tracks and even the odd competitive run around the city wall. There were of course, in the early days, all those vanquished at the poker table. Though, as James found himself softened by the Chinese civilization that surrounded him, so his prowess and single-mindedness at the poker table waned and the results just didn’t go his way!

Finally, to all those searching for inspiration, motivation or method in their Chinese studies, take a leaf out of James’ book and find the way that suits you. If you like sitting in classes with a number of classmates, do it, if you want to study randomly whatever you come across and in whatever environment you want to, then do it. I take my 李宁 Cap off to James for getting out there and using this language from the very beginning, and doing so in every possible situation, with whatever developed or undeveloped language he possessed at the time. He continues to be an inspiration.

James 3There are a number of James’ friends who will find a gap appears from his passing. He brings a positive, optimistic light to whatever endeavor he is faced with or whichever person he stands along side. Xi’an will be a shade darker with his passing, but Bolton, and my God it needs it, will be a lot brighter for his return. Who knows where the Old Jimmy Lad will end up, the next stop is South Africa in the summer, but wherever it is it will be a better place for him being there. To borrow a few words from his good friend Tony:

“We cannot assist everybody in all the areas of their need but if we persevere perhaps we can make just a small difference to some of the people that we encounter. As single individuals, we reach only a limited number of people, but if those people in turn connect with others then a chain reaction is beginning. So together…  if we drop just a few small pebbles in a few lakes who knows how far the ripples may spread and how many people they may touch along the way. Positive energy is extremely contagious; long may it continue to be so.”

So, to all those reading this who have just seen the British advert for his services as a teacher of Chinese, ignore it, unless of course you fancy your life taking a positive turn for the better.

ps. As the Great Chinese Sports Company Li Ning once noted: “Anything is Possible”

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Barack Obama, the Great Wall, a Shanghai Hall and the Importance of Tone

November 20th, 2009 Comments Off

I will begin these China news notes by acknowledging that my default mechanism is one of relative non-engagement with and ignorance of contemporary affairs. I tend to take a general sweeping look at life and its processes as I wander through my days and not engage with the minutiae of political matters and relationships. http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2009/nov/19/obama-in-seoul-after-great-wall-visit/So, because of that, I will begin with a quote from President Obama atop the Great Wall in Beijing. Obama noted: “It’s magical. It reminds you of the sweep of history… It gives you a good perspective on a lot of the day-to-day things. They don’t amount to much in the scope of history.”  

This is, generally, how I feel about a lot of the news that bombards us on a daily or, now I suppose, hourly and even minutely basis. This is not to say that these issues are not important, a lot certainly are, though of course a great deal are not. It is just, that in the great scheme of things, they don’t always mean that much and can, I believe, also obscure a wider perspective on our lives and the processes that underpin them. That said, I am going to use these China News notes to keep myself a little more informed, on a weekly basis, of what is going on with things Chinese on a so-called wider news front and not just the everyday way of life that I am a part of here in Xi’an.

The Obama visit seemed to be, as had to be expected, something of a balancing act between on the one hand, the wish to express deep held beliefs, and on the other, the recognition that those same beliefs are not actually shared in some quarters of the world. In a town hall in Shanghai he touched upon an issue surrounding freedom of speech, or more precisely “non-censorship with regard to Internet access, an issue that the Chinese government were not that keen to hear or be let heard. Then there was a US led desire to make progress with discussions over the re-evaluation of the RMB, so to, amongst other goals, ease the huge trade deficit the United States has with China. It was however, met by an equally strong desire from the Chinese not to do so, or at least not in the short term. State sovereignty and national priorities are still having their day. 

http://www.redspokes.co.uk/Lhasa%20to%20Kathmandu%20Tibet%20cycling%20holiday.htmThis continued with a recognition of Chinese sovereignty over Tibet but which included a pleasant sentiment, that it would be nice if the Chinese government and the Dalai Lama enter into some kind of dialogue. Maybe, I suggest, to discuss some of the more picturesque views in Tibet and where the best place might be to view them from. The US President went on to acknowledge that the US acknowledges China’s position on Taiwan while  staying quiet on the issue of US arms sales to the island.

Just to note from my experience of living here in Xi’an for a few years, the so-called Taiwan/ Tibet issues are absolutely, categorically not issues as far as nearly every single Chinese person I have ever come into contact with is concerned. There is, on this topic, a disbelief and incomprehension about why any such questions would even be asked. This is not a comment on the rights and wrongs but on the fact, as it is here amongst the vast majority of people. It is dwelling upon this fact that one could contemplate the US arm sales to Taiwan.

http://www.artnet.com/magazineus/features/karlins/karlins11-16-06_detail.asp?picnum=11On a lighter note, China wants all its Art Treasures returned, China and Vietnam have signed a land boundary demarcation agreement, India expressed concerns about America’s close inter-relationship with China, and according to the China Expat, Chinese grammar isn’t too difficult, while learning the tones of each word are of most importance. The latter point I am now finding to my own cost, only last week I signed up to a school, specializing in 1-1 tuition, who have promised to take no prisoners when it comes to drilling into me the tones of the words I have already learnt. Or more correctly, the words I haven’t actually learnt because I can’t quite remember the tones and thus often pronounce the word incorrectly, which to the Chinese means misunderstanding and incomprehension. Oh well! 慢慢来。

Finally, to end my first weekly sojourn into the China news, if the so-called firewall is hindering your efforts to engage in inter-continental dialogue or access certain sites and information, the not so non-censored internet, then the Virtual Private Network (VPN) has arrived. It may well have arrived some time ago but I only heard about it this week. As I have managed to mention the old DL and the two big T’s in my first weekly China news note, I may well soon be in need of one myself. Though, that may just be me descending into an expat paranoia, engendered during a mis-spent youth and induced by a government not quite letting people do what they want to do, and who keep an eye on those who try to do it anyway.

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The Jackson Pollock of Traffic Congestion

September 10th, 2009 Comments Off

What is it that makes people so self-concerned and so blinkered to the consequences of their actions? I don’t know but check out any road junction here in Xi’an and you’ll see the consequences. I have arrived back in Xi’an to discover that the road maintenance work on Chang An Nan Lu has nearly been completed. There is however a small stretch that remains without road markings and that includes a small side road junction with traffic lights still not turned on, the road at this point has space for about six lanes. I was stuck in an almighty traffic jam this week realising that though we were in the third (outside) lane going south, the three lanes further over were also going south, to put it another way all six lanes of traffic were going in the same direction! I thought for a second whether there was anywhere the oncoming traffic may have been re-routed to but realised there wasn’t, simply the cars behind had grown impatient and dived for the space to their left.

I haven't had my camera out so this is from net, the reality was worse.

I haven't been carrying my camera around so this is from net, the reality was worse.

Now we were waiting as all six lanes of traffic funnelled back into one lane. The oncoming traffic was obviously causing a blockhead further down the road but because they in turn had become frustrated, buses and lorries had crossed over and were heading north on our side of the road. The situation then being: six lanes of traffic heading south, being met at some point by three lanes heading north, correctly on their side of the road, and two lanes of traffic heading north on our side of the road. This left one lane for all of our six lanes to funnel back into.

Needless to say, a journey that, at that time of the day, usually takes about one minute, took close to forty-five minutes. A couple of days later I was at the same junction on my bike and was faced with vehicles that were pointing as if to every point on a compass, in a vehicular state not dissimilar to one of Mr. Jackson Pollock’s most random of paintings. I actually tried to help out a bit, holding back a line of traffic for a minute so to let two buses, that were sitting perpendicular to a line of traffic, pass through. However, no sooner had they moved out the way when three cars appeared on the wrong side of the road facing the line now freed by the buses departure, freedom was here a fleeting thing and only felt, not actually realized. I cycled off down the road.

I will finish this note with the observation that this kind of thing is not uncommon on the roads here, not always on this scale but scale is itself relative to circumstance- meaning: road junctions here are often a baffling, exceptionally frustrating, crazy mess of the most incomprehensible congestion, whether made of many or just a few vehicles. However, the majority involved actually tend to stay remarkably calm and that I suppose, amongst the things that aren’t, is to their credit.

Xi’an Is Not London But Nor Is London Xi’an.

September 6th, 2009 Comments Off

A return to Xi’an fraught with expectations and fear…, well may be I exaggerate a little, it was though a little intriguing to see how I was to find life here, having spent the longest period away for a few years. Being transported from down town London, by way of cars, aeroplanes, transit trains and buses, to the less salubrious environment of Yang Jia Cun, where I have lived for nearly 3 years (see below), was a little of a shock. Being surrounded again by the Chinese and particularly the street traders of the Cun didn’t sit so surely with my recently modelled arrogance and city street bravado of central London life: “ What am I doing here?”  I thought to myself.

yang-jia-cun1However, within about a day the joys of life in Xi’an sunk in or at least some of the joys that I recognise did. The two most important being the openness with which the Chinese communicate with one another and that the reality of life for so many here quashes any pretension I had for an ambitious path within the school of bravado and arrogance- though of course some friends may disagree on that point!

So, whether it is observing a couple crouched at the roads edge chatting, workers animatedly passing the day together, pedestrians on the street spotting a friend or a brother in arms and sharing their delight in short sharp bursts of conversation and laughter, Xi’an is an uplifting place to be within. Secondly, having been amongst the metropolitan elite of London and the home county bourgeoisie of Surrey for a couple of months and having consumed a little of that finer air, I was momentarily somewhat laid off balance by the ‘in your face’ squalor of some parts of this fair city, that I now dwell within.

However, it does not take long for this very reality and the awareness of my own good fortune within this society to stop that arrogance dead in its tracks and immediately replace it with, if not a quite debilitating humility, certainly something of the sort. I am back in Xi’an, it may not be forever but while I am here I am probably learning more than I am aware of and certainly more than I can, at present, fully articulate.   

Notes Will Continue On My Return To Xi’an

August 11th, 2009 Comments Off

Thanks Art. I will continue with these notes of mine but for the last month or so I have been in the homeland and I will be here for a few weeks more. I am looking forward to my return to Xi’an, so further notes may well be forthcoming. For the time being a few extracts from Harry G. Gelber’s The Dragon and the Foreign Devils, an historical overview of 3000 years of Chinese history, that I have started reading while away:

‘From the beginning [here referring to around 400BC] the westerners- traders and others- were highly interested in China and its ways. The Chinese, by contrast, showed no interest in exploration or travel to the far West, as distinct from some trade… That contrast between the Europeans’ desire for distant exploration and adventure, and the altogether more narrow and domestic focus of China, would continue.’ (p36)

41mqpyngpel_sl500_aa240_‘Like other observers, he [Matteo Ricci circa late 16C] greatly admired much that he saw in China. Here was a very large and unified realm, well ordered and with a central orthodoxy, namely Confucianism. Social life was regulated by rituals and manners that produced a harmony only too likely to be disturbed by foreigners.’ (p102)

‘But there is no evidence that European thought or practice had any influence on the beliefs of the Chinese governing and literary classes. As for the European traders [17C] to the China coast, they were apt to be adventurous, raucous and uncouth, and many of them, the Dutch especially, were a violent lot.  Anyway, the Chinese found it hard to distinguish among them, for they were all “red haired barbarians”. The empire therefore tried to maintain the general policy of imperial kindness to strangers, and to tolerate their trading efforts.’ (p124)

Bloomsbury Publishing 2008